Sunday 23 September 2012

Bali Weekend: Two days is not enough

Last weekend Megan and I traveled to Bali.  Bali is a small island (around the size of Delaware) that is part of the Indonesian archipelago.  It is one of the most popular tourist destinations in SE Asia because of its gorgeous beaches, open culture, and interesting wild life.  Australians in particular love Bali, and they describe it as "their Hawaii".


This post's title mentions that two days is not enough, and that is very true.  Bali has pretty much every warm tourist activity/attraction you could think of:
  • Water sports
  • Beaches
  • Surfing
  • Hiking
  • Camping
  • Bars/Night Clubs
  • Cultural sites
  • Home stays
  • Nice Restaurants
Unfortunately we had a short amount of time in Bali (3 nights and 2 days) so we tried to maximize as best we could.

Volcanos and rice fields in Bali
Lodging

Many different lodging areas have emerged to cater different tourists interests.  The most famous area is probably Kuta Beach where the backpackers stay.  Some refer to this as an Australian ghetto because of all the visitors.  It was interesting seeing the majority of shops selling Australian themed shirts and knick-knacks.  We stayed in Kuta our last night to experience the nightlife and have a short airport ride in the morning.  For the first two nights we stayed in Nusa Dua which is the resorty upscale area.  This provided a relaxing home base with nice access to private beaches.  The resort itself was nice with pools, spas, cabanas, bars and multiple restaurants but the atmosphere was more vacation/sterile than adventurous.

View from our room at the Laguna Resort Nusa Dua
Surfing
Our first day we took surfing lessons in Kuta with Odyssey Surf shop. This was our second time taking surfing lessons on vacation (the first being in Mexico).  Both of us remembered how to do it, but were in need of some practice.   The surf scene was pretty good.  It was scenic and the water was shallow and warm.  The only drawbacks to surfing in Kuta are that the waves were short lived and the water was quite crowded. For the more experienced surfer, Bali has plenty of other world class locations.

Dinner on the Beach

Saturday night we had BBQ seafood on the beach.  The sunset, sand, waves, and relaxing local music could have been a seen for a Corona commercial.  Our prawns, crab, and fish were grilled and then coated with a delicious "spicy" Balinease sauce.  Megan is convinced that whenever we order Spicy, the locals dial it back a few notches because of a perception that foreigners can't handle the heat.

Dinner and drinks on the beach
After dinner we enjoyed local beers while watching the waves crash against the beach.  A local mariachi-like band was playing for the guests.  After playing "Wonderful Tonight" for the third time, Megan and I decided that we would request whatever the band liked to play the most.  When they came by, we asked their favorite song and without hesitation one of them exclaimed "Johnny Cash" and they busted out Folsom Prison Blues.  This was unexpected and hilarious.

Cycling and Whitewater Rafting

Sunday continued our foray into adventure outdoor activities.  We went cycling down a volcano and through the local villages.  Our descent was pretty consistent throughout so we managed to pedal for less than 2 minutes during our 20 KM trip.  The steep hills were nerve wracking at times, especially for Megan. I've mentioned before how cycling is one of the best ways to interact with the locals.  We were able to see local houses, wood shops, temples, stores, and cultural sites.  The landscape in Bali is a luscious green and blue.  Despite all the growth and development it is still very natural in parts.  Another highlight of the cycling trip was the trying Bali coffee and tea.  We were even offered Kopi Luwak which is coffee made from beans digested by a cat.  I kid you not, it is one of the most expensive coffees in the world.

Bike Sites
In the afternoon we took a whitewater rafting trip.  This was the highlight of the entire Bali trip.  It was a great blend of physical exertion, beautiful sightseeing and comedic relief.  Our trip took us down a fast paced river for a 20 KM journey in class IV rapids.  We got wet and were jostled around quite a bit, but neither Megan nor I feel out.  We did get quite the work out for our arm and back muscles.  The river winded through jungles and valleys.  We saw around 20 waterfalls and even some crazy naked Bali kids who jumped in our raft.  The majority of the comedic relief came from our fellow tourists.  In another raft were two guys from Malaysia who instantly stuck out.  Megan and I had thought to dress down in clothes that would be suitable for wet and dirty conditions.  These guys didn't get that memo.  The one was wearing a brand new polo shirt, a luxury brand watch, Havianna sandals and seersucker shorts.  Megan chuckled at them as we began our journey.  For the majority of the trip Megan and I were smiling and laughing; our comrades not so much.  Their reactions ranged from bored to frustrated to terrified.  At one point the fancy dresser faked an injury so he wouldn't have to paddle anymore.  They then had to rope in another guide to help them finish the journey.  At the end of the trip we got certificates that said we had completed the course and were now prepared to take on any challenges that life brought at us.  I hope they put an asterick next to Mr. Fancy Dresser's certificate.

Taking a break from the river

Night in Kuta

After rafting we headed in to Kuta.  There we devoured some delicious pizza and Satay.  We then checked out a few of the local watering holes and found live music and good times.  After two jam-packed days we retired early in the evening to prepare for our early Monday morning flight.   Megan and I both agreed that two days was not enough for Bali.

Friday 7 September 2012

So what's Singapore like

The biggest irony in this blog is that the blog is called Singapore Stories and yet I haven't dedicated any posts to Singapore yet.  That will change.  I'll try to incorporate a bit of the week to week and Singapore weekend recaps to create an understanding of what life is like in this fascinating country.

The Basics

Singapore is a city, island and country.  It located at the end of the Malay peninsula and is sandwiched between Malaysia and Indonesia.   This position in the Straits of Malaca has made Singapore a dynamic trading port for hundreds of years.  In fact Singapore is the world's second busiest port.  The economy was prudently diversified by the government to be more than just a port; it also is a hub for Manufacturing, Tourism, Education, and Finance.  Singapore is rated as one of the freest, most innovative, most competitive, and least corrupt economies in the world.; combined with other factors (English predominance, low taxes, skilled workforce, advanced infrastructure) this makes Singapore very attractive for investment and growth.  Singapore has the world's third highest GDP per capita.  The common people are less well off than the US, but the rich are very rich.

Singapore is a melting pot of cultures.  The most predominant ones are Chinese, Malaysian, Indian, and Western.  There are a number of other immigrants from other Asian countries who come to Singapore for economic opportunities.  The diversity of cultures makes the neighborhoods, foods, and social calendar very interesting.  Singapore is also very welcoming to expats as they provide a great source of skills and expertise (yeah Megan!).

 Asia-lite

To Westerners, Singapore can be considered Asia-lite or Asia for beginners.  Why is that?  Well the widespread use of English makes it easy to adapt.  The openness to expats and tourists makes the city welcoming.  The infrastructure is amazing, especially compared to the other large Asia megacities (e.g. Bangkok, Kuala Lumpur, Jakarta).  And Singapore has low corruption and crime.  Thus one can explore the Asian cultures in Singapore but still remain well within their comfort zone.* 

Climate

Singapore is hot and muggy.  Walking around is very sweaty, which is probably why the locals refrain from doing it at all costs (only a little bit joking).

Sports

Singapore loves soccer/football.  This is inherited from the British colonial days.  As a result I can watch my favorite premier league team Arsenal at most any bar.  Singapore did not do very well at the Olympics.  They were tied for 75th in Medal count with the Republic of Moldova and right behind powerhouses like Bulgaria and Puerto Rico.  Both medals came in table tennis.  Like I said they are not a very good sporting country.

Peculiarities

Singapore has some strange peculiarities.  I'll make some focused posts on this as I experience things.

Today's topic will be Singapore's love of Toast.

20+ Toasty options
There are a number of restaurants in Singapore that focus on Toast.  Seriously just Toast!  It doesn't just come as a side dish, it comes as the main freaking dish.  I found this hard to believe because 1) toast is incredibly easy to make (yes Singaporeans have toasters), 2) it is incredibly cheap and 3) bakery food in Singapore is just average.  They even have ice cream toast and ice cream sandwiches made on real bread.

So why would someone pay 5X the cost of bread and butter to order toast at a restaurant?  I honestly don't know.  It's my mission to find out though.  My current theory is that it's a front for covert government operations.  Just look at this quote from Toast Box's website:
Established in December 2005 as a food stall unit of Food Republic Wisma Atria in Singapore, Toast Box has fast expanded with more than 30 outlets strategically located all over Singapore, made easy and convenient for our customers (both young and old) to enjoy Nanyang Coffee and freshly toasted bread. Toast Box has been well received in other territories, expanding its foothold in Malaysia, Thailand, Philippines, Hong Kong and China.
Why does it need to be so strategic?  Why do they have footholds in other countries?  It sounds more like a military operation than a misguided restaurant idea. There's a good chance this is a conspiracy and those who don't recognize it could get burnt like well... toast.

Not sure what Singaporean Toast looks like


Questions or Comments?

Let me know if you have any questions at Singapore.  I will do my best to answer them or just make stuff up.  Thanks for reading.

*This is why it's been fascinating to visit other Asian cities to get a more authentic perspective of life in SE Asia.

Monday 3 September 2012

Home away from Home

Megan and I were able to watch the Notre Dame-Navy game at a traditional football time (9pm) because the game took place in Ireland this week.  We decided to make it a very American affair by buying pizza and drinking beer.  On top of that we played some Beach Ultimate.  Although we still miss our friends and family, it was a nice touch of home. 

Have a great Labor Day weekend everyone!

The game was great, the food fantastic and the beer was arrrright!

Saturday 1 September 2012

Vietname Weekend Part 3: Tourist Cruise and Discovery of Banh Mi

This post will conclude the recap of the Vietnam trip (here are the links to posts one and two).  Our last night in Ho Chi Minh City we went on a dinner boat cruise on the Saigon River.  This isn't the type of activity I would normally do but Trip Advisor rated it strongly and Megan loved the idea.

Bonsai Boat Cruise

The Bonsai Boat was modeled after an old fashioned Vietnamese style boat with a sweet Dragon as the front and lots of ornamentation.  When we arrived at the dock they asked if we wanted our picture taken with the King and Queen, which definitely set the cheesiness tone.  On the boat they put us up into a private area at the front.  We met the magician, who was really fun to talk to and he showed us his skills.  Being a magic skeptic I watched intently at his allusions but he was pretty darn good at fooling me.

Right around when our private magic show ended we were able to go the buffet.  It was all you can eat, with different Asian and Western style foods.  Honestly, none of it was amazing just overall decent food.  During and after the meal there was live musical entertainment.  It varied from traditional dancers to current pop music to 60s and 70s classics.  The highlight had to be the old white westerners from Greece who had no shame in dancing and at one point started a Congo line during an Abba song.

Megan "I think they are doing a Congo Line"
Me "Oh God"
So to recap, our Bonsai boat tour had magic, an all you can eat buffet, "authentic" Vietnamese experiences and old people dancing.  Yep it was pretty much like being on a Carnival cruise ship.  This was by far the most touristy event we'd done.... and yet, Megan and I enjoyed it.  The Saigon skyline pretty at night and the service on the ship made the evening relaxing. 

The Parks of Ho Chi Minh City

Vietnam is a developing economy so when I arrived in Ho Chi Minh City I expected an overcrowded urban concrete jungle.  Instead I was pleasantly surprised to see numerous large parks in the heart of the city.  HCM could give Chicago, San Francisco and New York a run for their money in terms of recreational space.

A man playing the violin in one of HCM's may parks
Megan and I enjoyed strolling through the parks during our sightseeing breaks.  They provided a serene peacefulness from the traffic and bustle of the city, as well as great spots for reflection.  The parks enhanced the walk-ability of Ho Chi Minh City.  There were a number of cool sights in them as well, from Tiger statues to War monuments to funny workout eqiupment.

Banh Mi - Our favorite street food

Out of all the street food we sampled (and we sampled alot) our favorite dish was Banh Mi.  Banh Mi is a fusion dish that combines a French Baguette with Vietnamese style food (pickled vegetables, sauces and meat).  The baguette has delightful light texture due to the use of rice flour.  The flavor of the sandwhich is a delicious mix of spicy chilli, mayo and liver pate for sauce.  The substance of the sandwhich is fresh/tasty vegetables (lettuce, cucumbers, pickled carrots and daizon) and fatty meats (ham, bacon, pork sausage etc).  The street vendors can make one of these fresh in 10 minutes and amazingly they cost only 20,000 Dong (roughly $1US)*.

Awesome Banh Mi


Megan and I liked Banh Mi so much they we went about searching for places where you could find them in Singapore.  We found this website that did our request one better; it provides Banh Mi locations worldwide.

Conclusions:
  • Overall the trip to Ho Chi Minh City was great
    • The street food was delicious
    • The sights were interesting and informative
    • The people were friendly and helpful
  • We enjoyed the trip so much there's a good chance we'll come back to Vietnam to visit Hanoi and Halong Bay
*The conversion rate is crazy.  One of the funniest moments was at the ATM trying to figure out how much to take out and seeing an account balance that looks quite nice (then realizing it's in Dong not USD)