Vietnam Weekend Part 2: History Lessons

One cannot go to Ho Chi Minh City (HCM) without running into Vietnam War history.  Many of the famous landmarks, such as the Reunification Palace, played a role in the conflict.  There are numerous monuments and signs commemorating the North's victory.  Also, there are many tours that travel to places of interest from the war.  Megan and I took the opportunity to learn more about the Vietnam War (especially from the Vietnamese perspective) during our long weekend trip to HCM.*

War Remnants Museum

The War Remnants Museum (previously known as the Museum of American War Crimes) is located in downtown Ho Chi Minh City and was our first stop on our historical learnings.  Outside the museum were many vehicles, tanks, and planes used by the United States during the Vietnam War.  It provided some cool photo opportunities and brought to life many of the pictures and videos we've seen of the Vietnam War.

Megan with a US Jet Fighter

There were quite a few exhibits in the museum and the majority were well done.  The history of the war was told from a very one-sided perspective (as you may have predicted from the museum's past name), detailing the violent acts and destruction done by the United States. Not much space was given to explain the conflict or detail the actions of the North Vietnamese, Viet Cong or the South Vietnamese government.  Some of the memorable exhibits were:

• History of protests against the US War and rallies for the North Vietnamese across the world
• Graphic photographs of the atrocitices committed by the US and allies
• Agent Orange exhibit detailing the lasting consequences of the defoliants used by the US with some horrific pictures of birth defects and deformities
• Dedicated exhibit to the photographers who lost their lives in the war and their contributions to the media coverage of the war

This was a pretty moving experience.

Reunification Palace 

The Reunification Palace was formerly the 'White House' of South Vietnam and it is largely untouched since war's end.  The building was a critical command center during the war and the crashing of it's gates by two North Vietnamese tanks is symbolic of the Fall of Saigon marking the end of the Vietnam War.  The building architecture itself was a site to see.  It was very ornate with tons of Asian symbolism throughout the design.

The beautiful Reunification Palace

The history in the building had me geeking out quite a bit.  It was really cool to see the offices where foreign heads of state were hosted, the elaborate game room were the leaders relaxed, and the map room where war strategy was decided.  The building had a secret staircase for quick evacuation and a sophisticated bunker and tunnel system that connected to the airport and US Embassy.  The helipad on the top of the building was cool and it had been bombed by a South Vietnamese pilot who rebelled for the communist cause and is now celebrated as a hero.

The building tour includes a free guide and a few videos on the war.  It's a great value for $1.50 a piece and well worth the time for any history buff or architecture enthusiast.  Once again be prepared for a bit of historical slant.

Cu Chi Tunnels

The Cu Chi Tunnels provide quite the contrast to the style and opulence of the Reunification Palace.  They were created by the communist/nationalist sympathizers who lived in the Cu Chi village very close to Ho Chi Min City.  The village's proximity to South Vietnam's capital created a viable security threat and as a consequence was the target of US and South Vietnamese military action.  Intense bombing of the area forced the villagers to expand this intricate tunnel system and use it as a base of operations with hospitals, supply depots and living quarters.  This 75 miles long (and only a foot or two in sots wide) tunnel system was a critical base for the Tet Offensive.  Due to it's intricacies and clever traps, the US and South Vietnamese were never successful in clearing the area and tunnels.

The tour of the Cu Chi Tunnels was quite entertaining.  We had a crusty old Vietnam Veteran who was a bit of a lunatic.  His accent and maniacal laugh had Megan and I cracking up countless times.

The tour starts with a Cu Chi Tunnel propaganda video.  The video borders on the ridiculous with a very anti-American slant and a clever distortion of facts.  Some of the highlights include ridiculous music, quotes about how "No modern architects could EVER design something as complex as the Cu Chi Tunnels" and the celebration of "American-Killer War Heroes".  If you want to listen to the video in full it's at this link.  1:50-3:20 and 5:00-7:20 are the best parts. 

Tiny sight hole used to scout for enemies

The Tour also included information on tunnel life, physical replicas of gruesome booby traps and a chance to climb through the tunnels.  The tunnels were quite cramped, painful and claustrophobic.  Megan and I entered and exited real quickly.  Seriously, it is impressive the hardships endured by the people of Cu Chi for a cause they believe in.

A different kind of tourist trap

The tunnel tour even included an opportunity to shoot AK-47s and M-16s.  Megan rationally convinced me not to do this.  Touring these tunnels made me think if al-Qaeda complexes in Iraq, Afghanistan and Pakistan would be tourist destinations in thirty years.

People's views today
Prior to the trip I was interested to learn how Vietnamese people today thought of the US and the war.  I expected a bit of discrimination and awkwardness but honestly not much of that occurred.  Typically we were treated with respect and kindness; as it seems people have mostly moved on from the war.  It is also interesting to note that Vieetnam has gradually shifted towards a more free market economy.  Vietnam is one of the fast growing countries in Southeast Asia thanks to this opening of their economy and their proximity to China.  Despite this growth there still remains extensive poverty and corruption.  Many people believe that great times are ahead for the country but that only the select friends of the government will benefit.

 Conclusion:

• The Vietnam War history is interesting to learn from Vietnam's perspective, but it should be analyzed with a critical eye
• The sites in HCM are definitely worth seeing, with the Reunification Palace being the top priority
• Vietnamese people are surprisingly non-hostile towards Americans, so don't let the fear of discrimination deter you from visiting
• Vietnam is less communist today than you would think

*Note: This blog will try to remain apolitical at all times.  It will attempt to have a critical eye towards the politics and world it encounters but it will in no way try to further any agenda.  If you take issue with any of my writing please feel free to start a rational discussion in the comments section below. 

Vietnam Weekend Part 1: Adventures in Ho Chi Minh City

Just one week after visiting Cambodia, Megan and I embarked on a three day weekend to Ho Chi Minh City (formerly known as Saigon). We desired to explore the food and history of this booming developing country.  Vietnam is one of the fastest growing economies and that commercial energy was palpable in Ho Chi Minh City.  All sorts of people were hawking goods and services, the traffic was hectic and the construction industry was active.

'Welcome to Saigon?' - That's what I think this sign says

Travel and Accommodations

We flew Tiger Asia directly from Singapore into Ho Chi Minh City.  A lengthy delay got in us in pretty late on Friday night.  Vietnamese customs was slow but smooth (FYI: it helps to apply for your visa in advance).

Our hostel had sent a taxi to pick us up which was much appreciated at the late hour.  Sadly, our taxi driver had been waiting for us for over 3 hours, so he was not in a good mood.  Undoubtedly the best part was the placard he held up for us with perfect handwriting that read  "FEFFREY".  Megan and I got a great laugh out of it but we didn't have the heart to ask our perturbed driver to take a picture.

The Hong Han Hotel (a misnomer as it's really a guesthouse) was a solid place to stay.  It's located right at the end of the backpacker's district, Pham Ngu Lao.  This provides the advantages of being close to cheap food, western-friendly nightlife, and sightseeing areas while still having enough separation from the craziness.

Hong Han - great location, nice rooms, good breakfast

Anh, the Hong Han Hotel manager, was hilarious.  He seemed to be awake at all hours and was constantly running around trying to fix things.  I think he might be the most forgetful person I've ever met; especially for someone around 20 years of age.  He repeatedly asked us when we were checking out, if we had left our keys, and what room we were in.  Anh even forgot to reserve us a cab to the airport.  Fortunately, none of his forgetfulness created any difficulties which is likely why I remember him fondly.

The big win at the Hong Han Hotel was the complimentary breakfast.  Each morning we were able to wake up and enjoy eggs and a fresh baguette on a nice patio overlooking the morning bustle.  It provided good focus and energy for the day. 

Sights and Eats on the 1st Day

The first day we explored Ho Chi Minh City (HCMC) without any real distinct plan.  The first thing that attracted us on our wanderings was the Ben Thanh market.  The Ben Thahn market sells to both locals and tourists alike with food, knick-knacks, groceries and much more.  There were over a hundred different stalls packed into this place.  The sellers were quite aggressive, regularly physically touching us to pull us into their stall.  Quite unnerving at first.  The haggling was my favorite part; just a battle of wills to get to a price that was suitable for both parties. 

Benh Thanh market with relatively light traffic

Another cool sight was the Notre Dame Cathedral in the heart of the city.  The cathedral was built during the French colonial era and it still towers over the landscape today.  The building materials were imported from France and the Romanesque design is beautiful.  Unfortunately, the English mass was not at a convenient time so were unable to see the inside.

Saigon Notre-Dame Basilica

Megan and I have a goal of trying new foods.  We are willing to try everything at least once.  With that in mind we wanted to explore the Vietnamese cuisine with no holds bar during our trip.  For our first meal away from the hotel, we desired to find some 'yummy' street food but had to settle for a restaurant.  An initial glance at the menu made it clear, we had no other option but to try some exotic food.  For starters we ordered BBQ snails.  The BBQ snails were awful.  The texture was slimy yet chewy, the flavor was gross and they were a pain to eat.  It's safe to say I won't be trying Vietnamese snails again very soon.

BBQ SNAILS = AWFUL

Megan ordered Fish Cake soup which was just blah and my Vietnamese pancakes were pretty good but had prawns with their shells-still-on cooked in the omelet.  I later found out the leaving the shells on the shrimp was not uncommon in Vietnamese cuisine.  That gives me hope that maybe Dave Tighe could succeed as a Vietnamese cook*!  The drinks were a strong positive though.  Vietnamese iced coffee (made with condensed milk) is absolutely delicious.  I think I could drink that stuff all day.  And the fruit drinks were fabulous.  The abundance of delicious tropical fruit in Southeast Asia has made the fruit drink selection diverse, delicious, and cheap.

On the Back of the Bike Tour

Our food experience definitely picked up when we started to rely on the experts.  Megan and I booked a trip for the Back of the Bike Tour.  The tour involves us traveling around on motorbikes while sampling the street food of HCMC and seeing many of the city's different districts.  We had been looking forward to the tour as soon as we booked it.  Even with high expectations, the tour absolutely delivered.  During the tour Megan and I mentioned that we were having so much fun at least 3-4 times.  What was so great?

The People - Our tour guides were so nice and knowledgeable about the city.  They were fun to be around as people and they provided lots of great recommendations for things to see and do. Our fellow tourists were a blast too.  There were two middle-age Australian ladies who were really nice and a bit cooky.  They didn't want to try any of the food which seemed outrageous (especially when they rejected the desserts) but they were happy to converse and hang around.  The other tourist K-F was the exact opposite.  His motto was "I'm Chinese, I eat everything".  I was impressed how he dug right into baby duck eggs (yes it's as gross as it sounds).  He was also quite funny.

The Food - the baby duck eggs notwithstanding, all the food was amazing.  The street vendors in Vietnam really are better than the low or mid-tier restaurants.  Their flavors and the spices are great and the food is cheap.  Our tour menu included some delicious delicacies:

• Starters: Grilled Squid, Radish Rolls with Sausage, dried Shrimp and Hoison sauce
• Banh Xeo - Crispy Rice Flour "Crepe" stuffed with shrimp, pork and bean sprouts, served with fresh lettuce and sweet fish sauce
• Bun Bo Hue - Spicy Hue Style Pork and Beef Soup, with lemongrass and mam tom.  Served with sliced beef, pork sausage and shaved vegetables
• Mi Goi Xao Bo - stir fried instant noodle with beef and cabbage.  Served with a fried egg and chilli sauce
• Desserts:
• Banh Flan - Steam egg custard topped with crushed ice and coffee
• Che Dau Xanh - Mung Bean Sweet Soup with coconut milk (The Best Dessert)
• Che Com - green sticky rice with coconut milk

Step 1 in making the Flour "Crepe"

A finished Vietnamese Crepe next to a local brew.

The Ride - motorbike ride itself was an adventure.  My buddy Jeff Nathan warned me that the traffic in Vietnam was crazy and he was absolutely right.  There were motorbikes everywhere competing for space with aggressive taxis.  The traffic circles most represent a free for all.  It was thrilling for sure and it reminded me of the adrenaline rush I get on amusement park rides or from adventure sports (e.g. skydiving). Despite the chaos there was never a moment where I didn't doubt our drivers.**

View from the Back of the Bike

Overall the Back of the Bike Tour was phenomenal and definitely the pinnacle of the trip.  We still had two more days of adventure in Ho Chi Minh City and I'll post about our history lessons and sightseeing in my next post.

To Be Continued

*Back in college Dave made shrimp pasta for a couple of good friends.  It was his first time making it and somewhere in the instructions it never mentioned de-shelling the shrimp.  Hilarity ensued.  Have Dave tell the story to you sometime.
**I have great video of us on the back of the bikes going through a traffic circle.  Unfortunately, my external hard drive has taken on hard times and crashed.  If I get it fixed, I'll post that video and my other great pictures.

Cambodia Weekend Part 3: Adventures continued

Our Cambodia trip was a lot more than just temples.  After our exhausting travel adventure, we hit the ground running by checking into our hotel (Angkor Le Meridien) and then quickly traveling over to our cooking class. 

Siem Reap Cooking Class

Megan and I had both taken superb cooking classes in Chang Mai in Thailand so our expectations were high.  Megan's class was at A lot of Thai and mine was at Baan Thai.  At these classes the food was great and the instruction was at the right Goldilocks level (not too much and not too little).

Our Cambodian class was not quite like that.  Our instructor started as a friendly teacher and quickly turned into a drill sergeant. She would regularly yell at me to "STIR!" and the combination of a language barrier and personality quirks made it difficult to follow her.  On the negative side not much was learned besides how to chop stuff up and make vegetable flowers (Megan rocked at it, I got a participation medal). 

On the positive side it was really really cheap ($13 dollars a piece) and we made a ton of delicious food.  I won't remember it as a mediocre cooking class, but instead as a great restaurant meal where I had to contribute some sweat equity.  The cooking class quality reflects an overall theme that the Cambodian tourism industry is a bit behind Thailand (and others) in terms of sophistication and service orientation.  Regardless, enjoy the pictures:

Authentic market that we visited - the meat section was really interesting

We had to wear these funny hats while we cooked

Just chopping away

Jeff's Amok Degustation

Megan's noodle dish - look at the beautiful tomato rose she made!

Our feast - we also had spicy shrimp salad and pumpkin soup.
My pumpkin soup was the best.

Beware of Clingy Moto-Bike Drivers

Upon arriving at the Siem Reap airport we had two Motobikes take us to our hotel.  This was a great arrangement as it was cheaper than a cab and with a much better view.  Unfortunately the drivers tend to cling like an insecure middle school girlfriend.  They wanted to know our every move and be the ones who drove us anywhere.  At first this seems like a good win-win, they get business and we have the convenience.  But by the end of the weekend we were tired of setting our schedule to fit the Motobikes and we had been burned by their suggestions a few times.

The first suggestion that burned us was their dinner and nightclub choice.  We wanted to go to "Cambodian BBQ" and instead we got sub-par beef and noodles.  The only ones who ate alot of the food were the drivers.  Plus we were "lucky" to be able to pick up their tab.  They then recommended we go to Club Hip-Hop.  Here's a direct quote from the internet (so you know it's true):

"Hip hop is the name of a nightclub in Siem reap, the name is confusing as they very rarely play hip hop music in there, instead the DJs mostly play that kind of techno that you only hear in south east asia"

We heard alot of slow-dancing Japanese pop, Megan's favorite.  Eventually the DJ spun some tunes that could be danced to and Megan and I proceeded to do just that.  On the dance floor we encountered an interesting experience which my friend Matt Gumbleton later described as "White Celebrity Status".  The locals gawked and stared at us despite the fact that we were doing nothing special.  It was a bit surreal being watched and hovered around.  I'm guessing not many tourists frequent Club Hip-Hop.

Club Hip Hop - a 3 out of 10.

We Hip-Hoped away to Pub Street which is where the backpackers let loose.  At this point we were able to unshackle from the Motobike drivers which was much needed.  We ran into some fun places like Temple Bar and enjoyed the people watching.  Nothing too rowdy for us though, as we were tired from travel, cooking, and touring.

Truth in Advertising at Pub Street

The Bus Ride to Phnom Penh

The second major time we got burned by the Motobike drivers, was when we bought bus tickets to Phnom Penh.  I had sized up our options and was ready to buy tickets for the 6 hour ride on the Giant Ibis Bus (which is modern, air-conditioned, and comfortable).  Our Motobike drivers had other ideas (I'm sure they get kickbacks).  They recommended we buy from this other group as it would be cheaper and just as comfortable.  Ha.

We ended up taking what I would call an "Authentic" Cambodian bus ride.  Highlights:

• Megan and I were 2 of the only 3 people who spoke English.  
• We weren't sure it was going to our destination and there was no way to verify
• The seats were terrible/broken
• No air-con just fans
• Part of the roof broke off
• We traveled through really dusty roads which filled our bus with dust and made many of the passengers either stressed or laugh outrageously
• It played some bizarre sub-titled movies that included a movie/play, a gratuitously violent karate movie, and music videos strung into a movie

I was drenched in sweat from this experience. We survived it and can tell the tale of how ridiculous it was.  Just beware of the Moto-Bike drivers, they have their own incentives and despite smiling all the time, they are not always looking after your best interest. 

Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum

After our "interesting" Bus Ride from Siem Reap to Phnom Penh we went straight-away to the Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum.  This was a very sobering experience.  The Museum is a former Khmer Rouge prison that was used to torture over 20,000 prisoners from 1975 to 1978.  Estimates of the number of survivors in the prison is ranged from 7 to less than hundred.  Much of the prison is in the same conditions as when it was liberated which includes chains, torture tools, bullet holes and blood stains. 

The museum had some very educational exhibits on a number of topics:

• The history of the Khmer Rouge and the extent of their rule and violence.  
• Pictures of the thousands of inmates (including women and young children)
• An update on the war crimes trials of the surviving Khmer leadership
• Narratives of the victims and security guards at the prison
• Hundreds of skulls of the victims (extremely eerie)

The museum is not for the faint of the heart and it definitely affected my mood for a while but it's absolutely important to see it to understand the history of Cambodia and the suffering of its people.  I found it similar to the Holocaust Museum in D.C. but even more shocking given its more recent occurrence and our later conversations with Cambodians who survived the Khmer Rouge. 

Cycling the Islands of the Mekong

On our last day Sunday, we took a bicycle trip around the surrounding area of Phnom Penh through Grasshopper Adventures.  This provided an opportunity to interact with non-tourist industry Cambodians as well as to meet other travelers.  Our route took us through the city (a bit scary given the heavy traffic) then across the Mekong and Tonle Sap rivers via authentic boat shuttles through farms and housing developments. 

Crossing the brown waters of the Mekong River

The biking was moderately difficult.  Despite Megan's natural disinclination towards biking she was a trooper with a good attitude.  She even managed to laugh off the time where she almost fell into barbed-wire*.  It was good exercise and a great window into the everyday life of urban Cambodians. 

My favorite stop was at the local weaving factory.  We learned how they weave amazingly complex and beautiful patterns with simple wood looms.  The attention to detail and the skill involved was amazing.  It definitely gave me a great appreciation for local goods; in fact, I was so impressed I even bought some souvenirs despite my natural skepticism.  It was a bit heartbreaking to hear about how they sell their products to a middle man for so very little. 

Learning how the magic happens

Our tour guide was great.  His jokes were decent and his knowledge was vast.  My experience with him, our Temple guide and later our Vietnam tour guides gave me a few insights.

1. Tour guides are well connected within their community, they know almost everyone
2. Tour guides are very knowledgeable about the history, customs and needs of their community
3. Tour guides have great people skills that enable them to relate to both locals and foreign tourists
4. Tour guides typically have basic business experience and skills (selling, negotiating, etc.)

For these reasons, I think tour guides are uniquely positioned to be entrepreneurial forces in their developing countries.  They are at the nexus of their community and they have the core personal skills to be successful in business.  But they lack economic resources and business education.  I think there is a business opportunity here but I'm still sorting through in my head how it would work.  If you have any critical feedback I'd love to hear it in the comments section below.

Return to Singapore

After our cycling trip Megan and I returned to our guesthouse the Number 9 Hotel.  It was overall a good hotel with just decent rooms but great amenities.  We enjoyed a few cheap beers ($3 pitchers) and the pool table before heading to the airport.  At the airport we got upgraded to the front row because the checkout lady "liked us".  We relaxed as we waited for our direct flight to Singapore; very welcome after the chaos of traveling to Cambodia.

Conclusion

• Cambodia is a great place to visit - I'm very happy we were able to spend 4 days there although more would have been better
• Siem Reap is a bit more relaxing and beautiful than Phnom Penh but both are worth experiencing
• Cambodians are amazingly resilient - everyone was happy, positive and smiley even when discussing the horrors of the recent Khmer Rouge past and the current difficulties they face
• Cambodian food is good but I enjoy Thai food more - the major difference I was able to observe was that Cambodian food tends to be sour whereas Thai food blends more sweet and spicey.** 
• The Cambodian tourism industry is just taking off and is showing promise along with growing pains
• I have plenty to be grateful for back home (family, friends, opportunities, education, etc)

My next blog entry will focus on our weekend trip to Vietnam (Vietnam War history, street food, and crazy traffic).

*It wasn't that close or dangerous but Megan likes to exaggerate the story to sound more daring. :)
**To be fair, I still have much to learn about Cambodian food

Cambodia Weekend Part 2: Temples of Wonder not Doom

Angkor Wat was the main reason I had Cambodia on my must visit list.  The pictures and descriptions of the temple were amazing and it's been considered an alternate wonder of the world.  I did a little prior research on the temple and the Khmer empire that built it, but seeing it, touring it and being in Siem Reap was an incredible learning experience.

Angkor Wat

This massive complex is the largest Hindu temple in the world.  It was built in the 12th century at the behest of King Suryavarman II.  Angkor Wat resembles the Hindu Mount Meru (home of the Devas).  The temple is surrounded by a giant moat that is a 190m wide.  The dimensions correspond to Hindu beliefs and the structure is renowned for its harmony of design.  Given that all non-religious Khmer structures were built with perishable items makes this even more impressive.

Here are some pictures we took at sunrise:

There are five major towers with the largest in the center

The jungle scenery around the temple is fantastic as well

The major distinguishing feature is the five towers shaped like lotus buds.  These five represent the five mountains at Mount Meru.  This shape of tower appears frequently throughout Khmer architecture.

Megan staring in awe at one of the towers

The walls of the temple have amazingly intricate bas-relief sculputres that tell Hindu Epics such as the Ramayana.  The scope and detail were astonishing.  Here's some pictures that will woefully not do it justice:

Bas-relief of an epic battle scene

We hired a tour guide which I highly recommend.  He provided alot of the background, explained the bas-reliefs in detail and answered all of our questions ("Why is there a huge staircase there?" "It's a swimming pool" "Oh, cool").  Angkor Wat is very impressive.  A few more of my favorite pics.

Megan and I at the temple entrance

Angkor Wat moat

Vishnu  the Hindu's Preserver of the Universe - our awesome guide is to the right

The "Cool" swimming pool.

Interestingly, even though Cambodia is~95% Therevada Buddhist now, people still pray at this Hindu temple.  They've in a way converted it over and as a consequence it's stayed in very good shape.


The Khmer Empire built a lot of impressive temples besides Angkor Wat; something I learned while in Cambodia.

Angkor Thom and Bayon

Angkor Thom was the capital that was built a bit after Angkor Wat.  The Bayon temple is at the center of the capital exactly 1.5 KM from all four entrances.  The entrance to the capital has a moat and a bridge theme that is seen throughout.  It has the Gods and Demons holding Dragons as part of the churning of the Ocean of Milk story.

Restored Demon heads at the gates to Angkor Thom

Right next to the "Demon with Bad Teeth"

The Bayon temple was one of my favorites.  Like Angkor Wat it has beautiful bas-reliefs.  These sculptures tell not only Hindu epics but also provide details about everyday life in the Khmer Empire.  Something archaeologists surely appreciate.  It is amazing that the everyday life depicted in this 12th century temple was not all that different from the everyday life of Cambodians in the 19th century.

Bayon Temple

The erie faces of Bayon Temple - rumored to be King Jayavarman VII

The sculpture faces of the Bayon Temple are really cool.  Many of the columns have faces on four sides facing the cardinal directions.  This reminded me a bit of Legends of the Hidden Temple for you children of the 80s-90s.  There are an estimated 200 faces total but that number could be higher for the original building.  The construction materials and upkeep of the Bayon temple is inferior to Angkor Wat and consequently there has been decay.

Ta Prohm

King Jayavarman also built Ta Prohm which he dedicated to his mother.  It was originally purposed as a monastery for Buddhist monks.  Ta Prohm housed several thousand people, and it required over 100,000 people from over 5,300 villages to provide rice and supplies for it. 

The way the trees have grown on the temples is very moving and beautiful.  Ta Prohm is so scenic and mystical it has shown up in movies such as Tomb Raider and Troy (granted not the best movies but still).

Other cool photos

Hindu temple built in a pyramid style

Temple ruins of Prea Khan

The temples are set in a jungle-like ecosystem

Conclusions

• The detail and scale of these temple monuments demonstrates how important religion was to the culture and political environment of the Khmer Empire.  In contrast, the most impressive buildings made by modern Western Civilization are testaments to commerce (Sears Tower) and sports (Yankee Stadium).
• It was great to see the temples in person to get an appreciation for the amount of work and skill needed to build these temples.  Simply massive.  
• Another interesting lesson was the non-linearity in human progress.  The Khmer Empire built these great temples in the 12th century and then mediocrity ensued in the region for hundreds of years.  The mediocrity was due to a combination of environmental factors (overpopulation stressing irrigation resources and overusgae of suitable building materials) and political factors (Cambodia was at the fault line between two emerging powers that differed significantly in culture, Thailand and Vietnam).  But I think it is human tendency to want to see growth in a linear manner versus booms and busts, whereas the booms and busts tend to occur more naturally.
• Angkor is a continued source of price to Cambodians.  It is on their national flag and has been a positive to point to despite tough times (Declining empire, Khmer Rouge, economic difficulties, etc.).

Clearly Angkor is still a source of Cambodian pride

My next post will be about the other adventures we had in Cambodia; including Cambodian cooking classes, a Cambodian night club, a somber visit to the Genocide museum, an authentic Cambodian bus ride, and a biking tour through the islands of the Mekong.

Cambodia Weekend Part 1: Getting there is half the battle

So Megan and I booked our 4-day trip to Cambodia quite late.  And as a consequence we had some consequences.

Our plan was to fly to Siem Reap from Singapore; however, costs and travel prohibited this conveneient solution.  Instead we booked flights from the Johor Bahru Airport (Malayasia) to Kuala Lumpur with a late night layover before flying out at 6am to Siem Reap.  There was a couple things I've learned from this experience.

MS Paint version of our planned travel itinerary to Siem Reap

Lesson 1: The Singapore-Malaysia checkpoint is difficult during a holiday. 

To get to the Singapore-Malaysia border checkpoint one can take a cab but it's preferable to take a Malaysian cab as they can go directly to the airport whereas Singapore cabs cannot leave the country.  So after an adventurous search we found the appropriate Taxi stand for Malaysian taxi cabs.  But when we arrived we found thirty plus people waiting in "The Line of Broken Dreams".  This line was not moving and people's attitudes could best be described as hopeless and bored.  At this point we may or may not have hit the panic button* as we started to brainstorm alternatives.

It was then that we learned we could take a Singaporean Cab but we would then have to cross the bridge to Malaysia via bus.  We rolled the dice.  Fortunately we got a funny/crazy driver who spoke enough English to help us get to the Checkpoint.  I think he reminded us about 11 times during our 30 minute ride that we were "cutting it really close".

Singapore customs was a breeze but when we arrived at the Bus Stop we discovered a bit of a problem.  There were many buses but the lines for them were a mosh-pit, the buses were unlabeled (creating the risk that we accidentally take one back to downtown Singapore = game over Cambodia), and the buses were about as packed as this bus below:

Minor Hyperbole on how packed the checkpoint buses were

At that point we had two options:

1. Risk it by waiting for a bus and praying we take the right one
2. Walking it across the bridge

When we asked the attendant how long the bridge was she said "I have no idea" which is flabbergasting given that supervising the bridge is HER JOB!  Thankfully, we met a fellow traveler who had gumption and confidence and who decided to walk with us.  He was a native of Southeast Asia who went to the University of Oklahoma (way random) and now works in Kuala Lumpur.  By traveling with him we figured we would get there Sooner.

This bridge crossing was a journey.  Unfortunately we have no pictures of it for which I apologize but we were honestly fearing for our lives.  The bridge is about a mile long with a shoulder of about 3 feet (had to walk single file).  There was quite a bit of traffic zooming by at speeds of 50-60 MPH.  At one point we had to cross the offramp to get to the customs office and we basically played Frogger with packs of motorbikes.  Picture all of this at night, poorly lit with heavy pollution and you have our wonderful scene.

Lesson 2: The Johor Bahru Airport is not close

After our journey across the bridge we had to go through Malaysian customs which was a breeze.  A little bit of a wait but I actually picked the right line which helped.  I've basically decided to go with the George Costanza method of picking the exact opposite line that my instincts tell me to pick.  Even years of flying as a consultant has made me no better at picking the right line.

From the airport we grabbed a Taxi which ended up being a 45 minute ride, way longer than our original assumption.  At this time it was around 10:00pm and it was difficult to stay awake post the adrenaline rush.  We finally made it in time for our flight.  I think in total the journey took over 3 hours.

Lesson 3: The KL airport is uncomfortable

Our flight from the Johor Bahru airport took us to Kuala Lumpur.  Our layover was from midnight to 6am so we decided to try to find some space to sleep at it.  We were not the only ones who do this.  There are even websites for this type of thing believe it or not http://www.sleepinginairports.net/asia/kualalumpur.htm

So given that we have "savvy" competition, I assumed the fit for good sleeping spots would be a battle.  But we found a spot that seemed ideal.  There was a row of massage-machine lazyboy recliners.  They were somewhat comfortable but had the issue of loud beeping if people sat in them too long without paying (to keep away filthy squatters a.k.a. us).

Fortunately, Megan and I had our thinking caps on.  The machines could be easily unplugged so we went around unplugging ours and everyone else's machines.  Beeping stopped.  We got some grateful head nods from our fellow weary travelers.  But the chairs were still a bit uncomfortable due to their upright nature.  That's when the real brilliance came in.  If we put in a mere one dollar into the machine while it was plugged in and then waited to unplug the machine until the chair was horizontal during the massage, we'd have a pretty phenomenal bed.  Execution was flawless.  With a few other MacGyver-esque hacks we were able to make semi-comfortable beds.  Megan is modeling our glorious approach below:

Living the High Life.

We awoke to the lovely sound of tourists checking their bags and shaking their heads in judgment at our rag-tag sleeping setup.  Whatever, it got the job done.  Our flight from KL to Siem Reap, Cambodia was rather uneventful.  We made it and were excited (yet still tired) to begin our exploration of Cambodia.

Conclusion

Do not wait until the last minute to book travel.  Traveling on a budget is overrated.  Sleeping overnight at the airport sucks in the moment and sucks for the 2-3 days afterwards when you feel exhausted and sore.  But no matter how bad the conditions are, push come to shove Megan and I will figure something out.

Next Up - Actual Cambodia pictures and adventures!

*We definitely hit the panic button.

Off to a great start

The Exposition

I arrived in Singapore Friday morning after 26+ hours of travel from Chicago thru San Francisco (unexpectedly) and connecting in Hong Kong.  Besides some minor delays the travel was mostly painless.  I ended up sleeping a lot and watching the video options offered by United.  My original plan was to dive deep into a new tv series (Game of Thrones or The Wire) but the lack of wireless on the flights stymied that.  Probably for the best to avoid getting sucked into TV.

A cab took me from Changi airport (one of the world's nicest) to Megan's apartment where I will be staying.  That apartment, The Sail @ Marina Bay, is amazing. I'm grateful to have such a great place over my head.

There are some peculiarities about the building for sure.  One thing is that it has a Karoake room which can be rented for parties.  It's unclear to me what the appeal is of belting out Don't Stop Believing from the comfort of my own apartment building.  Another peculiarity is underwater workout equipment.  As awesome as it sounds, Megan and I tried out it today and were a bit disappointed.  The workout bike was herky jerky and the treadmill didn't turn over (sorta a core requirement).  Another cool amenity is a Grill area which Megan and I hope to use to host friends during one of our non-travel weekends.

 
I'm excited to catchup with some of my friends here in Singapore.  Through my previous time in Singapore, Megan's new friends and my networking there are a number of people I plan to see.  I also hope to make plenty of new friends as well.

Workout under the Sea!

One theme throughout my time here will be Food.  Singapore is a foodie paradise due to it's cosmopolitan nature and intersection of many Asian cultures.  One example of this is the Hawker centers, where delicious Chinese, Malaysian, Indian and other Asian food is available alongside Western dishes.  I've had some fantastic food already including Satay, Prawn soup and Pineapple Friend rice with Pork Floss (super scrumptious).  In the future I plan to post food pictures and explain what I've learned about the dishes.

This evening Megan and I leave for Cambodia.  We'll fly through Kuala Lampur to Siem Reap. In Siem Reap, we'll take a Cambodian Cooking Course and explore beautiful Khmer temples such as Angkor Wat.  We will also travel to Phnom Penh to explore the countryside, learn about Cambodia's history, and experience the nightlife.  This trip has been on my bucket list so I'm excited we're doing it so soon.



To make sure I'm getting the most of my travels and trip I've developed some goals below:

• Travel around SE Asia to explore new cultures and see amazing sites
• Try new foods and learn to cook a few of my favorites
• Find intellectually challenging employment and/or volunteer opportunities
• Stay physically fit and healthy
• Relax and enjoy myself