Vietnam Weekend Part 2: History Lessons

One cannot go to Ho Chi Minh City (HCM) without running into Vietnam War history.  Many of the famous landmarks, such as the Reunification Palace, played a role in the conflict.  There are numerous monuments and signs commemorating the North's victory.  Also, there are many tours that travel to places of interest from the war.  Megan and I took the opportunity to learn more about the Vietnam War (especially from the Vietnamese perspective) during our long weekend trip to HCM.*

War Remnants Museum

The War Remnants Museum (previously known as the Museum of American War Crimes) is located in downtown Ho Chi Minh City and was our first stop on our historical learnings.  Outside the museum were many vehicles, tanks, and planes used by the United States during the Vietnam War.  It provided some cool photo opportunities and brought to life many of the pictures and videos we've seen of the Vietnam War.

Megan with a US Jet Fighter

There were quite a few exhibits in the museum and the majority were well done.  The history of the war was told from a very one-sided perspective (as you may have predicted from the museum's past name), detailing the violent acts and destruction done by the United States. Not much space was given to explain the conflict or detail the actions of the North Vietnamese, Viet Cong or the South Vietnamese government.  Some of the memorable exhibits were:

• History of protests against the US War and rallies for the North Vietnamese across the world
• Graphic photographs of the atrocitices committed by the US and allies
• Agent Orange exhibit detailing the lasting consequences of the defoliants used by the US with some horrific pictures of birth defects and deformities
• Dedicated exhibit to the photographers who lost their lives in the war and their contributions to the media coverage of the war

This was a pretty moving experience.

Reunification Palace 

The Reunification Palace was formerly the 'White House' of South Vietnam and it is largely untouched since war's end.  The building was a critical command center during the war and the crashing of it's gates by two North Vietnamese tanks is symbolic of the Fall of Saigon marking the end of the Vietnam War.  The building architecture itself was a site to see.  It was very ornate with tons of Asian symbolism throughout the design.

The beautiful Reunification Palace

The history in the building had me geeking out quite a bit.  It was really cool to see the offices where foreign heads of state were hosted, the elaborate game room were the leaders relaxed, and the map room where war strategy was decided.  The building had a secret staircase for quick evacuation and a sophisticated bunker and tunnel system that connected to the airport and US Embassy.  The helipad on the top of the building was cool and it had been bombed by a South Vietnamese pilot who rebelled for the communist cause and is now celebrated as a hero.

The building tour includes a free guide and a few videos on the war.  It's a great value for $1.50 a piece and well worth the time for any history buff or architecture enthusiast.  Once again be prepared for a bit of historical slant.

Cu Chi Tunnels

The Cu Chi Tunnels provide quite the contrast to the style and opulence of the Reunification Palace.  They were created by the communist/nationalist sympathizers who lived in the Cu Chi village very close to Ho Chi Min City.  The village's proximity to South Vietnam's capital created a viable security threat and as a consequence was the target of US and South Vietnamese military action.  Intense bombing of the area forced the villagers to expand this intricate tunnel system and use it as a base of operations with hospitals, supply depots and living quarters.  This 75 miles long (and only a foot or two in sots wide) tunnel system was a critical base for the Tet Offensive.  Due to it's intricacies and clever traps, the US and South Vietnamese were never successful in clearing the area and tunnels.

The tour of the Cu Chi Tunnels was quite entertaining.  We had a crusty old Vietnam Veteran who was a bit of a lunatic.  His accent and maniacal laugh had Megan and I cracking up countless times.

The tour starts with a Cu Chi Tunnel propaganda video.  The video borders on the ridiculous with a very anti-American slant and a clever distortion of facts.  Some of the highlights include ridiculous music, quotes about how "No modern architects could EVER design something as complex as the Cu Chi Tunnels" and the celebration of "American-Killer War Heroes".  If you want to listen to the video in full it's at this link.  1:50-3:20 and 5:00-7:20 are the best parts. 

Tiny sight hole used to scout for enemies

The Tour also included information on tunnel life, physical replicas of gruesome booby traps and a chance to climb through the tunnels.  The tunnels were quite cramped, painful and claustrophobic.  Megan and I entered and exited real quickly.  Seriously, it is impressive the hardships endured by the people of Cu Chi for a cause they believe in.

A different kind of tourist trap

The tunnel tour even included an opportunity to shoot AK-47s and M-16s.  Megan rationally convinced me not to do this.  Touring these tunnels made me think if al-Qaeda complexes in Iraq, Afghanistan and Pakistan would be tourist destinations in thirty years.

People's views today
Prior to the trip I was interested to learn how Vietnamese people today thought of the US and the war.  I expected a bit of discrimination and awkwardness but honestly not much of that occurred.  Typically we were treated with respect and kindness; as it seems people have mostly moved on from the war.  It is also interesting to note that Vieetnam has gradually shifted towards a more free market economy.  Vietnam is one of the fast growing countries in Southeast Asia thanks to this opening of their economy and their proximity to China.  Despite this growth there still remains extensive poverty and corruption.  Many people believe that great times are ahead for the country but that only the select friends of the government will benefit.

 Conclusion:

• The Vietnam War history is interesting to learn from Vietnam's perspective, but it should be analyzed with a critical eye
• The sites in HCM are definitely worth seeing, with the Reunification Palace being the top priority
• Vietnamese people are surprisingly non-hostile towards Americans, so don't let the fear of discrimination deter you from visiting
• Vietnam is less communist today than you would think

*Note: This blog will try to remain apolitical at all times.  It will attempt to have a critical eye towards the politics and world it encounters but it will in no way try to further any agenda.  If you take issue with any of my writing please feel free to start a rational discussion in the comments section below.