Sri Lanka Part 3

Supun, her family and I devoted a whole day to historical Sri Lanka.

Anuradhapura

We started off early around 6am and rode up together in the family van.  We stopped for a breakfast picnic at a scenic lake.  There were many other Sri Lanka families enjoying the sights and warm sunny weather.  We had some tasty food.  I impressed Supun's family with my ability to enjoy spicy foods.  We then continued on to Anuradhapura, Sri Lanka's first capital.  It's history was quite old as it was built around 500 B.C.  There we saw another one of Sri Lanka's most sacred spots.  It is a temple with a descendant of the original Bodhi Tree under which the Buddha gained enlightenment.  A branch from the original tree was planted in 288 BC making it the oldest verified specimen of any angiosperm (type of tree).  At the temple we made an offering, lit incense, received a Buddhist string bracelet and made a wish.  If my wish comes true then I will have to return at some point to the Temple to give thanks.

We also saw the Ruwanmalisaya, which is a large white stupa dedicated to the Buddha.  It was a very impressive site an another important Buddhist site.

Sri Maha Bodi - descendant of the original bodi tree

Mihinthale

Our next stop was Mihinthale.  It's a great overlooking spot near Anuradhapura.  Supun said it was her favorite so despite being pressed for time we included it in our lengthy itinerary.  At the top of this scenic overlook were temples, stupas, and statues.  we raced up to the top and were rewarded with expansive views and a peaceful environment.  This was impressive but not as impressive as what was to come.

Minthale - a very pleaceful place

Authentic Sri Lankan lunch

For lunch we stopped at a local Sri Lankan restaurant.  We all sat down to eat and then Supun realized that they hadn't brought me silverware.  In most countries this would be noteworthy but in Sri Lanka everyone eats with their hands.  Well when in Rome... I didn't want to be an outsider so I joined in using my hands.  There's definitely a technique to it (using just the tips of the fingers, starting from the edge of the rice and using the thumb to push it into my mouth).  It was much easier to pickup than chopsticks.  I once again ate the spicy food and they joked that if I was a little tanner, I could almost past for a Sri Lankan (until I spoke of course).

Sigiriya

Our journey continued to Sigiriya, the Lion Rock.  I could best describe it as a mix of Machu Pichu and the Sphinx.  Sigiriya is a palace complex built on top of a mountain-boulder by a rogue Sri Lankan king.  The King had killed his father to usurp the throne and he feared revenge from the brother who was the rightful heir.  So he moved from the capital and build this vast complex to defend himself.  He created vast irrigation terraces for food, swimming pools and catchment pools.  He commisoined gorgeous cave paintings (still preserved) to distract any attackers.  He also built amazing walls, fortresses and statues.  The top had amazing views of the jungle, mountains and farmland of north central Sri Lanka.  It was an absolutely brilliant place that stimulate my senses and imagination.  A must see.

In front of the beautiful Sigiriya 

View from above - notice the beautiful landscape and the intricate irrigation

Supun at the entrance - it used to be a lions head but now is only the paws

View from the top of Sigiriya

Wall paintings meant to distract invaders and entertain tourists

Distracting paintings!

Panoramic of the beautiful scenery around Sigrirya

Enjoying the view

The Return

We returned back to Kandy through 1-lane roads and treacherous traffic.  It was an amazing day.  That night I stayed in St. Bridget's Guesthouse.  It was a homely guesthouse with great hospitality and authentic food.  I enjoyed the traditional dinner with some Sri Lankan beer.  After a solid night's rest I awoke for some meditation and early sustenance.  The house keepers made homemade pineapple and passion fruit jam that was deliciously sweet.  I then met up with Supun to explore the Botanical gardens.  We saw the bridge and sites and then toured the city in search of any Sri Lankan foods I hadn't tried.  We got an orange coconut thing, a fried pasty, and ice cream.  The inevitable goodbye was said and I was sad to leave.  I then took the train back to Colombo to catch my flight.  This ended the last of my Asian trips.

Lion Lager is a local beer - a light and crisp taste

Delicious homemade Sri Lankan meal at Bridget's Hostel

Thambili King Coconut like drink - delicious

Food Recap

So with Supun's help I came up with a list of foods I tried while in Sri Lanka.  It varies from the really exotic to the had-it-before-but-tasted-better in a tropical place:

• Fish Curry
• Sri Lankan Cream Soda
• Prawn Buiriyani 
• Thambili (king coconut)
• Hoppers - fluffy light pancake-like
• Koththu - noodle/egg dish
• String hoppers- iddi aapa
• Cutlets
• Malu paan - bun with marinated fish in it 
• Rolls
• Tropical fruits: mango, papaya, pineapple, white guvava
• Wade
• Extra sweet sri lankan tea
• Traditional Sweets- dodol, aluwa, milk toffee, kawum
• Poll sambal ( chiili coconut with salt and lemon)
• Daal
• rice and different curries
• papaya drink
• woodapple drink 
• Lunu Miris (chilli dip for aapa)

Sri Lanka Part 2

After my crazy journey from the airport to the hostel to the train in Colombo, I was relieved to be arrive in Kandy.  Waiting at the station was my friend Supun with her driver.  With Supun’s guidance and help I would see much more of central Sri Lanka in 48 hours than I ever thought possible.

Australian friends in Sri Lanka

Supun is a friend I met will studying abroad in Fremantle, Australia.  We were put into the same volunteer group that traveled to the Australian outback.  We had a ton of fun learning gardening, farming, construction, and hunting knowledges from the locals.  We even went rabbit and kangaroo hunting late at night with our hosts.  Supun’s spunky optimistic Buddhist ideals balanced my snarky Western sarcasm.  We’ve stayed in touch with email for the past five years but this was the first time we’d been able to catchup.  During all those years she implored me to visit Sri Lanka so when I got the chance while in Asia, I took it.   And it worked out quite well as Supun would also be in Sri Lanka during that time for a Med School elective. 

From the train station we took a three-wheeler to her relative’s place where she was staying.  They showed me warm hospitality with a tea with milk and sugar.  The saying goes that the more someone likes a guest the sweeter they make their tea.  This tea was very sweet!   Supun and I got to hang out with the little grandson there who was adorable.  

Elephant Orphanage

After packing supplies for our day we took the three wheeler to the Pinnawala ElephantOrphanage.  The journey was a bit long and bumpy on the three-wheeler but it was exciting and scenic as well.  The Elephant  Orphanage was fantastic.  They had 30-40 elephants of all ages and shapes.  When we saw them they were bathing in the river.  Supun and I were able to pet and feed them bananas.  Feeding them was tricky as we’d offer them one banana and their trunk would go straight towards the bag with the rest of the bananas.  The mischievous elephants were clever and nimble.  We spent an hour or two watching them frolic and socialize in the water.  The young baby elephants were especially playful and energetic.  After their bath, the elephants marched to their home.  We watched from a few feet away as these massive animals stormed back with alarming speed and power. 

Elephants bathing at the river near the Orphanage

Elephants powering through the streets

Elephant harassment - not sure who is giving or receiving

After the orphanage, we purchased a few souvenirs from the area and were then on our way to grab some Sri Lankan lunch.  Supun consistently insisted that I try every Sri Lankan food possible.  This made for a tasty and filling experience.  At the pre-lunch spot we grabbed fish rolls, lou mapan, and deserts.  The last time I had met with Supun, my taste in food was rather bland.  This time I was able to eat all the spicy stuff without complaints.  In fact, I impressed and shocked many of the Sri Lankans with my ability to eat the local food. 

Hospitals in Sri Lanka may get you sicker

After the pre-lunch we visited the public hospital she was working at.  In Sri Lanka, public hospitals offer all their services and medicines for free to the population.  As such it’s oversubscribed and underfunded.  The hospital floor reminded me of a war hospital with many beds crammed into an open room and patients writhing in pain.  The sanitary conditions were not up to western standards, for example, stray dogs just wander through.  Supun’s advice was “don’t get sick and if you do, go to the hospital once you get back”.  At the hospital we caught up with Supun's colleague and friend Chalani.  

Kandy City

We traveled to Kandy the major city in central Sri Lanka.  There we visited the Sri Dalada Maligawa, The Temple of the Sacred Tooth Relic, one of Sri Lanka's most holy spots.  It contains a tooth from the Buddha which had immense spiritual importance as well as political relevance.  The rulers of Sri Lanka used possession of the tooth as a sign of government legitimacy.  In the temple was a museum that had the history of the tooth.  The legend says the tooth came over in the hair of a princess and the tooth was then shuttled from capital to capital over millenia as Sri Lanka resisted invasion.  

The temple itself was impressive in it's aura, beauty and decoration.  We offered flowers, said a prayer, lit a candle and lit incense, which came in handy later in the day.  Every year the people around Kandy celebrate Esala Perahera, the festival of the tooth.  It has ornately decorated dancers, elephants, music and much more.  The ceremony has come to symbolize Sri Lanka.  It was highly recommended that I come back for Perahera.

At the temple with our flower offerings

Perahara pictures of ceremony at the Sri Dalada Maligawa.

After the temple, we grabbed some food and prepared for our journey to the north.  We grabbed some egg hoppers and kutto for a nice meal.  Disaster struck though.  As we were leaving Supun realized her iphone was misplaced.  After a bit of panic by everyone we deduced that it must have been left back in the parking lot we were at 15 minutes prior.  So we drove back knowing that the odds of finding the phone were low.  But upon arriving back we saw the iphone in it's glorious pink case.  It landed face down and was right by where our car had been.  A minor miracle to say the least given how busy the parking lot was and how long the phone was left there.  We gave credit to our offering at the Temple for bringing us good fortune. 

The next day Supun and some of her relatives picked me up for a journey north to some of the most spiritual and beautiful sights in Sri Lanka.

Sri Lanka Part 1

Megan was cooped up in India for a few weeks so I was on my own for travels.  She saw the Taj Mahal and I visited Sri Lanka.  

Sri Lanka in Brief

Sri Lanka may be unknown to many of the readers so I’ll provide a quick background.  It’s an island country in South Asia near India, which it shares many cultural similarities (e.g. similar food, religion).  The ethnic groups are the majority Singhalese and the minority Tamil. There was a 30 year civil war between political factions representing those groups.  The civil war recently ended three years ago with tensions being reduced but the threat of terrorism still present.  Sri Lanka’s people and economy suffered as a result of the lengthy and expensive conflict.  Consequently, the country is still developing in terms of industry, infrastructure and tourism.  During my time in Sri Lanka I encountered areas that were much more developing than I had seen elsewhere in Southeast Asia (with the exception of maybe Cambodia).

In search of my Hostel

Sri Lanka’s lack of infrastructure makes it difficult to get around.  After landing at the airport late on Friday night, I tried to grab a quick taxi to my hostel.  Unfortunately there were few taxi drivers available and when I was able to negotiate with one, he was unsure of where my hostel was.  We set off from the airport and passed through humble neighborhoods and dark alleys on 2 “lane” roads.  I use quotation marks as the taxis, trucks, and three-wheelers made lanes as they saw fit.  As we neared the hostel, my driver had to stop 7-8 times and call 3-4 times to figure out where the hostel was.  There was a small fear that Friday night would be spent somewhere unplanned.  Eventually, we found the place in a dark alley with no signs.  Our 25 mile cab ride took about 2 hours with only minimal traffic.  When I later asked my Sri Lankan friends about this experience they were unsurprised.

Tourism Work in Progress

The tourism industry is still developing so there is no major neighborhood to stay in Colombo nor common business practices.  When I arrived at the hostel at 2am, I was met by a couple guys in sarongs.  They weren't the sharpest tools in the shed and they had trouble finding my reservation despite the fact that I was the only one staying in the place.  They then proceeded to try and charge me twice as much as the original cost.  There were a couple giveaways: 1) I could see the prices they had written down for me and others, 2) I still had my email confirmation with the price and 3) they looked as unscrupulous as possible.  They put up a good fight but eventually I wore them down.  I then also had to convince them to order me a taxi for 5am to get me to the train on time.  Given their lack of competence with the reservation I was highly worried they would blow this as well.  At 5 I woke and walked to the dark lobby.  All the doors were closed and the gate was locked.  So I had no way to get out.  At this point I started pounding on doors to awaken someone to get me out to my taxi.  My adrenaline was high and I was pretty close to being ticked off.  Finally, the head bozo rubbed the sand out of his eyes and let me leave.  No tears were shed upon leaving this idiotic hostel. 

I arrived at the train station with little time to spare.  I then had to break through the language barrier to understand where to buy my train ticket and which line to wait in.   The stakes were high as missing the train would have cost me almost a day.  Fortunately, I was able to join forces with some other tourists from Singapore and we got our tickets in the nick of time.  I rushed to the platform and then proceeded to wait for 20 minutes at the train was late.  Such is life in a developing country.  The train had cars for locals and for foreigners.  The local cars were packed full of people, lacking air conditioning and equipped with uncomfortable seating.  I elected for the first class foreigner car which included an above expectation meal, air conditioning, reclining chairs and windows for a beautiful view.  They even had wireless.  Opting for luxury in this case was a bit touristy of me but I’m happy I made that decision.  I got some much needed sleep and an opportunity to view the gorgeous country side of Sri Lanka.  I breathed a huge sigh of relief once the train got going.  I knew my friend Supun would be meeting me at the station, and then travel would be much easier and more pleasant.

My friend Supun

Traveling as an outsider

Being a white foreigner in Sri Lanka is an interesting experience.  Strangers will gawk at me and/or be very nice.  But that niceness comes with a cost.  Everything I bought myself was 2-10 times more expensive than the prices charged to the locals (granted those prices are dirt cheap).  And a sizable minority of those smiling faces were willing to scam me for much more.  It absolutely pays to have a local guide.

Sri Lanka is an amazing place.  The adventurous travel is absolutely worth it.  I saw many amazing places and learned about another interesting culture.  There's no doubt that it's an up and coming travel place.  I’ll cover those details in my next post.

Melaka and Kuala Lumpur

Note: I got back safely to the US a few weeks ago and was able to enjoy spending time with family and friends.  I'll be finishing up with the last 4 posts on my travel.  Best of luck in the new year.

Megan’s audit trips took her to Kuala Lumpur for a weekend.  I was able to catchup with her.  We explored KL a little bit and also sampled Melaka.

Melaka – a past maritime power

Melaka is a historic port town.  Once known as the Venice of the East, old Melaka attracted maritime trade from Europe, Middle East, Indian, China and Southeast Asia.  Its policy as a free trade zone made it an amazingly successful and diverse bazaar.  The wealth inevitably attracted the European colonial powers (the Portuguese, Dutch and British).  Under colonial rule, Melaka’s trade was heavily taxed and the port’s influence and economic vibrancy faded.  Other port cities such as Penang and Singapore were prioritized over Melaka. 

Today Melaka is a small city worth a visit.  The old historical buildings are fascinating and there are museums for every interest.  The maritime museum and ethnology museums are informative and extensive.  The Chinatown neighborhood has plenty of antique shopping but beware as that quality varies.  Melaka has plenty to explore for a day trip or a quick weekend jaunt.

Standing outside the Maritime Museum

Melaka's Chinatown with a cool dragon decoration

Delicious food in Melaka

Melaka has some unique takes on cuisine.  One of the first things we had was Popiah which is a spring roll on steroids.  Like Singapore, Kuching, and Penang, Melaka has its own take on Laksa.  We tried both o those dishes and more at  Nancy's Kitchen Restaurant.  And for dinner we crushed some Satay Celup.  It’s similar to steamboat where we select the raw ingredients on skewers which dump into a boiling vat to cook; the difference being that instead of boiling flavored water there is boiling peanut sauce.  The tables had built in heating and containers to keep the peanut sauce warm.  After a few minutes of sitting in the boiling sauce, the food was ready to devour.  Satay is normally quite tasty and even though the end product was probably not quite as good as normal satay, the novelty of the celup style made it worth trying once. 

The satay celup peanut sauce heating up in the middle of the table.

Megan enjoying playing with her food

Kuala Lumpur

KL is a tin miing town that has boomed into a megacity and the capital of Malaysia.  KL’s metro population is over 7 million and the city is very spread out.  The public transportation is inconsistent thus logistical issues prevented us from fully exploring KL.  There were a few things worth mentioning.

There is a solid bar and restaurant scene in the Golden Triangle area of the city.  It’s good for a night out with plenty of bars and clubs to hop to.  We visited an Irish Bar that played mostly 80s music so we enjoyed that.

We also had an interesting visit to a Ramen restaurant for lunch on Sunday.  After watching ND clinch their undefeated season, we celebrated with lunch.  Megan got a beer and I did the adult thing and ordered a coke float.  The Ramen was fantastically flavorful and it had detailed step-by-step instructions on how to enjoy the Ramen.  It’s not just eating the Ramen; it’s enjoying the smells, the separate tastes and sequencing the eating.  During our lunch we had 3-4 little asian kids stare at us from across the booth dividers, which is a perk of sticking out like a sore thumb.  Our booth had L shaped seating, the best of both worlds (same siding and opposite siding).  When we went to pay for the Ramen, Megan won us a free lunch.  Pretty kick ass.

Ramen, gyoza, beer, and coke float

Singapore-Malaysia Soccer Game

Reading the local newspaper is a great travel tip.  It’s an easy way to understand what the locals are thinking and to relate to them in conversation.  The newspaper is also a source of event information.  We learned about the AFF Suzuki Cup which is a Southeast Asian soccer tournament for the national teams.  Malaysia was hosting Singapore for the first round on Sunday night so Megan and I decided to go.  Neither of us had ever been to a soccer game before so we eagerly anticipated the game.  It was great fun.  The crowd was raucous, especially the Malaysian super-fan supporter section.  They rolled out massive banners, banged on drums and taunted Singapore pretty much all night (see the video below during the national anthems).  We sat in the Singapore section and things got real exciting when Singapore scored.  The 3 Lions as they are known routed Malaysia 3-0 (Note that Singapore would eventually win the tournament as an underdog which is awesome).  It was a cool authentic experience as we were some of the only white people amidst the crowd of 40,000.  A weird thing happened though.  A number of Malaysian strangers would randomly walk up to us and say “welcome to Malaysia” then leave and laugh.  Not sure if it’s an inside joke.

Getting back to the soccer game was an adventure as we almost ran out of money and the trains stopped running.  We contemplated selling our excess possessions to fund our travel back.  Fortunately we found an ATM so I still have my KAMSC t-shirt from high school.  And don’t worry folks this (running out of money) doesn't happen very often to us.  We survived and were able to make it back; Megan worked the next day and I traveled back to Singapore.

Hanoi - A beautiful synthesis of past and future

While Megan and I really enjoyed Ho Chi Minh City, all the travelers we spoke to emphasized that Hanoi was much better.  Hanoi is a beautiful and grand old city (a few years past a 1000 years old).  Hanoi still has many of the cultural elements from its history and combines that with the hustle and bustle of a modern dynamic city.  It is a beautiful synthesis of past and future that creates an amazing present experience for tourists and residents alike.

Hostel

While in Hanoi we stayed near Hoan Kiem Lake near the old city center.  It was a great base of operations from which to investigate the city.  Hanoi's streets were quite narrow with plenty of sidewalks so it is an extremely walkable city (if you can cross the street through traffic).  We spent hours on foot exploring the parks, shops, alleys, cafes and street vendors.  We chose Central Backpackers as our hostel in order to experience dorm living for our first time in SE Asia.  Unfortunately we don't have crazy stories about violent cocaine addicts, inappropriate public sex acts, or dramatic cheating scenarios (things I ran into during my backpacker times in Australia).  We did however meet a number of interesting folks from the US, England, Germany and Dubai.

By Hoan Kiam Lake - gorgeous setting in the city center

I'm excited to be by one of the few still existing Lenin statues
#nerdy

Fun Nights

The hostel had a free beer happy hour which helped facilitate the meeting of the cool people.  The most interesting character was a middle aged blue color guy from the US who was amazingly well traveled and spoken for his socioeconomic status.  After the free beer ran dry, Megan, myself, and our new friends decided to try authentic Vietnamese snake wine.  This particular jug of wine had seven snakes and multiple spiders in it.  The taste was surprisingly likeable, better than house whiskey or vodka.  The hangover however did leave a bit to be desired.

The bar nightlife scene in Hanoi is amusing.  There are many regulations on the bars and nightclubs but there's a wink-wink nod-nod culture and lots of blind eye turning by the police.  For example, we had to clear out of a bar multiple times when the police came by but then we resumed our merry festivities as normal after they passed.  We capped off our most exciting night by going to one of the underground clubs.  The part of town was so quiet, I had Megan hold the cab until I could verify the place actually had a nightclub.  Inside it was a rager of a party and we enjoyed letting loose with our new friends.

Our Jug of snake wine

The Sights

One of the most interesting sights we visited was the Temple of Literature which is Vietnam's oldest University.  At the front gate is an amusing sign commanding each visitor to dismount their horse before entering.  The temples inside were ornate and the grounds were immaculately landscaped.  Across that street was a quiet oasis-like park juxtaposed to the busy neighborhood and packed apartments.  Here Megan and I stumbled upon an illicit cock fighting ring.  Quite shocking seeing the poor animals wickedly hurt each other.  Another interesting sight was the Hanoi Hilton.  Famous for having hosted John McCain and other American POWs.  The Vietnamese propoganda about prisoner conditions is quite humorous.  It wouldn't fool many people except maybe for Jane Fonda. The one attraction we were able to see was the Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum.  Uncle Ho, the still revered leader of Vietnam's independence, was in Russia for repair.  The respect they pay him to this stay is impressive.

Entrance to the Temple of Literature - hold your horses

John McCain's flight suit

Water Puppets!!

Another cool cultural experience was seeing a performance of traditional Vietnamese Water Puppetry.  This artform originates from the rice paddy fields in Vietnam's villages.  The music, puppets and lights display were entertaining: sometimes informative, sometimes funny and sometimes confusing.  It is definitely worth checking out.  We even had a blooper moment where one of the hosts forgot her lines, had to excuse herself and came back later with a printed script and red face.  The other hosts had to stifle their laughter.  The video doesn't quite do it justice so check out youtube.

The puppets

Street Food that Rocks

And lastly we really enjoyed the food.  We raved about the food in Ho Chi Minh City and again Vietnam delivered awesome food for cheap.  The pho was fragrant and flavorful.  Amazingly the ingredients (including the meat) were high quality given the bargain prices.  The bun cha was amazing with the really tasty Vietnamese fish sauce.  And the spring rolls were excellent.  We ate the majority of our meals on short stools  on the sidewalks.  Nothing fussy or pretentious, just really good food.

Bun Cha - my new favorite Vietnamese food

Enjoying some relaxation in the gorgeous cafes by the streets

Conclusion:

• Hanoi has a great blend of authentic and dynamic
• It's a city that is friendly for on-foot exploration
• There weren't any killer sights to see (maybe Halong Bay)
• The nightlife was fun and the food tasty
• Go visit Hanoi!

Into the Jungles of Borneo

Megan and I ventured into the wild lands of Borneo during the Hari Raya Haji long holiday.  Borneo was unlike any place we had visited in Southeast Asia.  Borneo’s natural wildlife and indigenous cultures are quite unique.   For our trip, we based operations out of Kuching, the capital of the province of Sarawak.*

The exotic wildlife

Borneo’s wilderness is exotic and fascinating.  The island’s separation from mainland Asia has allowed wildlife to evolve in unique closed environments.  Consequently many animals found in Borneo are found nowhere else in the world.  A great example is the Probiscus Monkey.  The Probiscus Monkey has to be one of the uglier members of the primate family.  They have a strange fat body, bizarre coloring and a weird nose which makes them seem almost alien like.  They live in small groups high up in the trees where they feast on fruits and leaves.  We encountered a number of these creatures up close while staying at Bako National Park.

The unfortunate looking Probiscus Monkey

Bako National Park is a protected reserve on a peninsula in Sarawak.  We stayed there for two days and one night in order to see lots of exciting wildlife.  The lodging at Bako is quite humble and gets ripped on at Trip Advisor “Far and away, this is the absolute worst accommodations we have had anywhere. We have been to 64 countries, traveled backpacker style. We are not all that fussy, but these accommodations were disgusting.” and "Before I'm misunderstood I spent a week living in a jungle before coming here and am not unused to insects, cheeky monkeys or "roughing it" but honestly you're better to tent it than to stay here.", but the nature elements more than compensated.

The humble accommodation - not great but not the
apocalypse of crap that the reviews warned of.

The Park is home to 7 different ecosystems, 3 primate species, lizards, reptiles and 150 different species of birds.   We hiked for 7-9 miles each day through jungles, mountains, and grasslands to deserted beaches.  Along the way we spotted numerous monkeys, bearded boars, carnivorous plants, and much more.  The smells and strange sounds of the jungle were intoxicating.   At one point one of the macque monkeys made a kamikaze style run at Megan to grab her ice cream.  You gotta watch out when you are in Borneo!

Megan crossing the waterfall on a treacherous bridge.

An example of the rough terrain we hiked through

Looking out across the South China Sea.  At the end of the
land mass you can see the landmark Sea Stacks.

At night the rangers lead tour guides back into the jungles to see the wildlife in their nocturnal state.  We came across a Wagler's Pit Viper, the 3^rd most poisonous snake in Borneo.  We saw frogs whose croaks could be heard for miles away.  We saw a beautifully colored Kingfisher bird sleeping the night away.  We also ran into bats, tarantulas, spiders and florescent mushrooms.   The tour provided tons of night time thrills.  As a bonus we had two amateur photographers competing for the honor of being “that guy”.  They both took about 10 pictures and 7 minutes for every animal we saw, no matter how insubstantial the creature.  Megan’s patience was worn to the point where she referred to one of them as Mr. DSLR.  A note to Mr. DSLR if you ever read this blog: ‘We get it dude, you have a nice camera.  In the future can you please take just one picture and stop blinding the animals with your obnoxious flash?’

After Bako we took another trip to Semenggoh Wildlife Rehabilitation Center to see Orangutans in their natural habitat.  Despite the inclimate weather (our first time with bad luck in any of our trips), we were still able to see 3 Orangutans feeding.  These animals were amazingly graceful, coordinated and human-like.   The way they shook the trees as they floated from branch to branch was impressive.  Orangutans live solitary lives and are endangered, so it was truly an incredible experience being able to see them in the wild.  Megan and I made sure to leave a good impression in case Planet of the Apes ever becomes real. 

Orangutans in Borneo

The Culture of Borneo

Like many of the countries in Southeast Asia, Borneo is a melting pot of diverse ethnicities and religious beliefs.   What’s different is that Borneo has a fascinating indigenous population.  The Dayak are tribal people who dominated the island until colonization in the 1800’s.  They previously lived in the jungle areas of the land and had extremely different beliefs than the cultures of mainland Southeast Asia.  For example, the Iban people practiced head hunting which was the decapitation and then proud display of enemy human heads.  The people were also impressively interested in body art.  Many of the males had intricate tattoos in painful places.  The tattoos and body modifications are still observed by their modern descendants.  Megan and I learned much about the indigenous cultures during a stop at the Sarawak Museum.

Megan underneath human heads in a replica Iban longhouse.

The City of Kuching

The City of Kuching kept us busy for a couple days.  Right near the Sarawak Museum were other nicely curated museums on Art, History, Islam and more.  They provided hours of intellectual stimulation, especially the exhibit on different funeral and death customs.  Kuching also offers a nice riverwalk, a variety of souvenir shops and pretty good restaurants.   In terms of local food, the Sarawak Laksa was most excellent.  It was sweet and a bit spicy, not sour like Penang Laksa.

Kuching’s only disappointment was it’s dead nightlife scene.  Megan and I twice explored the city at night and all we found were a few empty bars.  The best place to relax and grab a drink was our Hostel Bar which was themed after an Iban Longhouse.  For a couple nights we enjoyed a few drinks and good company there.

Conclusions:

Borneo was an adventure.  The crazy wildlife, the exotic cultures and the interesting city of Kuching provided great experiences.  Kuching is a great base of operations for travelers interested in exploring the natural and cultural elements of Malaysian Borneo.   Travelers shouldn’t expect a rapidly growing cosmopolitan city like Ho Chi Minh City or somewhere in Bali.  Nevertheless it works as a solid base.   

Asia Gangnam Style

While in Penang last weekend, Megan and I came across a street festival in Georgetown.  The festival was similar to those in the US with local business vendor booths, interesting county fair style foods (gotta love fried foods and meat on a stick), and musical entertainment.  Except that the musical entertainment wasn't a live band but a dance off.  And the dance off wasn't teams dancing to different songs but instead they were dancing to the same exact song in its entirety.  And that song was none other than the viral sensation Gangnam Style. 

If you are new to Gangnam Style, the quick debrief is that its a Korean pop song that satires the conspicuous consumption lifestyles in the rich Gangnam district of Seoul.  Most Korean pop is sappy garbage (think Michael Bubble and Hannah Montana), so the critique elements of this song are quick unique.  The song itself is very catchy and the dance moves are outrageous.  Which makes it a good candidate for a dance-off competition.  Let's meet our competitors:

Competitor 1: Old Guy who sucked

I'm not sure if this guy lost a bet or was delusional about his own abilities.  He had a relatively serious face with thoroughly mediocre "moves" I don't think his knees bent to an angle less than 165 degrees.  His jazz hands were ok but none of his moves corresponded to the music video or song.  Overall grade: C-

 

Competitors #2: The well rehearsed teenagers

The lead contenders had to be teenagers who were on top of this song months ago and had been rehearsing day and night since then.  These folks were legitimately very good.  They brought energy and performed some physically difficult moves.  They also had good group coordination which cannot be overestimated in difficulty.  Lastly, they gave proper homage to the video by using some of its moves and even having the lead dancer dressing like the singer. The only drawback was that the girl in the group was less into it than the others, dragging down the team effort.  Overall grade: A-

Competitors #3: The adorable kids

These kids were awesome.  They were really well rehearsed and totally unfazed by the large crowds and they had really good dance moves.  The fact that they were 7 and 8 made it even better.  Plus you gotta love the bow-tie.  Overall grade: A+  The Champs!

Conclusion:  Gangnam Style is huge globally right now, and Penang is no different.  The crowds for this event were very large but here was a complete absence of crowd participation or enthusiasm.  Crowd singing and cheering and dancing would have enhanced this competition by 200%.  Nevertheless, Megan and I found entertainment gold when we stumbled upon this.  One of those great spontaneous travel moments.  And the spicy chili bacon from the street vendors was delicious.  Street festivals are wonderful no matter where they are.

Bali Weekend: Two days is not enough

Last weekend Megan and I traveled to Bali.  Bali is a small island (around the size of Delaware) that is part of the Indonesian archipelago.  It is one of the most popular tourist destinations in SE Asia because of its gorgeous beaches, open culture, and interesting wild life.  Australians in particular love Bali, and they describe it as "their Hawaii".


This post's title mentions that two days is not enough, and that is very true.  Bali has pretty much every warm tourist activity/attraction you could think of:

• Water sports
• Beaches
• Surfing
• Hiking
• Camping
• Bars/Night Clubs
• Cultural sites
• Home stays
• Nice Restaurants

Unfortunately we had a short amount of time in Bali (3 nights and 2 days) so we tried to maximize as best we could.

Volcanos and rice fields in Bali

Lodging

Many different lodging areas have emerged to cater different tourists interests.  The most famous area is probably Kuta Beach where the backpackers stay.  Some refer to this as an Australian ghetto because of all the visitors.  It was interesting seeing the majority of shops selling Australian themed shirts and knick-knacks.  We stayed in Kuta our last night to experience the nightlife and have a short airport ride in the morning.  For the first two nights we stayed in Nusa Dua which is the resorty upscale area.  This provided a relaxing home base with nice access to private beaches.  The resort itself was nice with pools, spas, cabanas, bars and multiple restaurants but the atmosphere was more vacation/sterile than adventurous.

View from our room at the Laguna Resort Nusa Dua

Surfing
Our first day we took surfing lessons in Kuta with Odyssey Surf shop. This was our second time taking surfing lessons on vacation (the first being in Mexico).  Both of us remembered how to do it, but were in need of some practice.   The surf scene was pretty good.  It was scenic and the water was shallow and warm.  The only drawbacks to surfing in Kuta are that the waves were short lived and the water was quite crowded. For the more experienced surfer, Bali has plenty of other world class locations.

Dinner on the Beach

Saturday night we had BBQ seafood on the beach.  The sunset, sand, waves, and relaxing local music could have been a seen for a Corona commercial.  Our prawns, crab, and fish were grilled and then coated with a delicious "spicy" Balinease sauce.  Megan is convinced that whenever we order Spicy, the locals dial it back a few notches because of a perception that foreigners can't handle the heat.

Dinner and drinks on the beach

After dinner we enjoyed local beers while watching the waves crash against the beach.  A local mariachi-like band was playing for the guests.  After playing "Wonderful Tonight" for the third time, Megan and I decided that we would request whatever the band liked to play the most.  When they came by, we asked their favorite song and without hesitation one of them exclaimed "Johnny Cash" and they busted out Folsom Prison Blues.  This was unexpected and hilarious.

Cycling and Whitewater Rafting

Sunday continued our foray into adventure outdoor activities.  We went cycling down a volcano and through the local villages.  Our descent was pretty consistent throughout so we managed to pedal for less than 2 minutes during our 20 KM trip.  The steep hills were nerve wracking at times, especially for Megan. I've mentioned before how cycling is one of the best ways to interact with the locals.  We were able to see local houses, wood shops, temples, stores, and cultural sites.  The landscape in Bali is a luscious green and blue.  Despite all the growth and development it is still very natural in parts.  Another highlight of the cycling trip was the trying Bali coffee and tea.  We were even offered Kopi Luwak which is coffee made from beans digested by a cat.  I kid you not, it is one of the most expensive coffees in the world.

Bike Sites

In the afternoon we took a whitewater rafting trip.  This was the highlight of the entire Bali trip.  It was a great blend of physical exertion, beautiful sightseeing and comedic relief.  Our trip took us down a fast paced river for a 20 KM journey in class IV rapids.  We got wet and were jostled around quite a bit, but neither Megan nor I feel out.  We did get quite the work out for our arm and back muscles.  The river winded through jungles and valleys.  We saw around 20 waterfalls and even some crazy naked Bali kids who jumped in our raft.  The majority of the comedic relief came from our fellow tourists.  In another raft were two guys from Malaysia who instantly stuck out.  Megan and I had thought to dress down in clothes that would be suitable for wet and dirty conditions.  These guys didn't get that memo.  The one was wearing a brand new polo shirt, a luxury brand watch, Havianna sandals and seersucker shorts.  Megan chuckled at them as we began our journey.  For the majority of the trip Megan and I were smiling and laughing; our comrades not so much.  Their reactions ranged from bored to frustrated to terrified.  At one point the fancy dresser faked an injury so he wouldn't have to paddle anymore.  They then had to rope in another guide to help them finish the journey.  At the end of the trip we got certificates that said we had completed the course and were now prepared to take on any challenges that life brought at us.  I hope they put an asterick next to Mr. Fancy Dresser's certificate.

Taking a break from the river

Night in Kuta

After rafting we headed in to Kuta.  There we devoured some delicious pizza and Satay.  We then checked out a few of the local watering holes and found live music and good times.  After two jam-packed days we retired early in the evening to prepare for our early Monday morning flight.   Megan and I both agreed that two days was not enough for Bali.

Vietnam Weekend Part 2: History Lessons

One cannot go to Ho Chi Minh City (HCM) without running into Vietnam War history.  Many of the famous landmarks, such as the Reunification Palace, played a role in the conflict.  There are numerous monuments and signs commemorating the North's victory.  Also, there are many tours that travel to places of interest from the war.  Megan and I took the opportunity to learn more about the Vietnam War (especially from the Vietnamese perspective) during our long weekend trip to HCM.*

War Remnants Museum

The War Remnants Museum (previously known as the Museum of American War Crimes) is located in downtown Ho Chi Minh City and was our first stop on our historical learnings.  Outside the museum were many vehicles, tanks, and planes used by the United States during the Vietnam War.  It provided some cool photo opportunities and brought to life many of the pictures and videos we've seen of the Vietnam War.

Megan with a US Jet Fighter

There were quite a few exhibits in the museum and the majority were well done.  The history of the war was told from a very one-sided perspective (as you may have predicted from the museum's past name), detailing the violent acts and destruction done by the United States. Not much space was given to explain the conflict or detail the actions of the North Vietnamese, Viet Cong or the South Vietnamese government.  Some of the memorable exhibits were:

• History of protests against the US War and rallies for the North Vietnamese across the world
• Graphic photographs of the atrocitices committed by the US and allies
• Agent Orange exhibit detailing the lasting consequences of the defoliants used by the US with some horrific pictures of birth defects and deformities
• Dedicated exhibit to the photographers who lost their lives in the war and their contributions to the media coverage of the war

This was a pretty moving experience.

Reunification Palace 

The Reunification Palace was formerly the 'White House' of South Vietnam and it is largely untouched since war's end.  The building was a critical command center during the war and the crashing of it's gates by two North Vietnamese tanks is symbolic of the Fall of Saigon marking the end of the Vietnam War.  The building architecture itself was a site to see.  It was very ornate with tons of Asian symbolism throughout the design.

The beautiful Reunification Palace

The history in the building had me geeking out quite a bit.  It was really cool to see the offices where foreign heads of state were hosted, the elaborate game room were the leaders relaxed, and the map room where war strategy was decided.  The building had a secret staircase for quick evacuation and a sophisticated bunker and tunnel system that connected to the airport and US Embassy.  The helipad on the top of the building was cool and it had been bombed by a South Vietnamese pilot who rebelled for the communist cause and is now celebrated as a hero.

The building tour includes a free guide and a few videos on the war.  It's a great value for $1.50 a piece and well worth the time for any history buff or architecture enthusiast.  Once again be prepared for a bit of historical slant.

Cu Chi Tunnels

The Cu Chi Tunnels provide quite the contrast to the style and opulence of the Reunification Palace.  They were created by the communist/nationalist sympathizers who lived in the Cu Chi village very close to Ho Chi Min City.  The village's proximity to South Vietnam's capital created a viable security threat and as a consequence was the target of US and South Vietnamese military action.  Intense bombing of the area forced the villagers to expand this intricate tunnel system and use it as a base of operations with hospitals, supply depots and living quarters.  This 75 miles long (and only a foot or two in sots wide) tunnel system was a critical base for the Tet Offensive.  Due to it's intricacies and clever traps, the US and South Vietnamese were never successful in clearing the area and tunnels.

The tour of the Cu Chi Tunnels was quite entertaining.  We had a crusty old Vietnam Veteran who was a bit of a lunatic.  His accent and maniacal laugh had Megan and I cracking up countless times.

The tour starts with a Cu Chi Tunnel propaganda video.  The video borders on the ridiculous with a very anti-American slant and a clever distortion of facts.  Some of the highlights include ridiculous music, quotes about how "No modern architects could EVER design something as complex as the Cu Chi Tunnels" and the celebration of "American-Killer War Heroes".  If you want to listen to the video in full it's at this link.  1:50-3:20 and 5:00-7:20 are the best parts. 

Tiny sight hole used to scout for enemies

The Tour also included information on tunnel life, physical replicas of gruesome booby traps and a chance to climb through the tunnels.  The tunnels were quite cramped, painful and claustrophobic.  Megan and I entered and exited real quickly.  Seriously, it is impressive the hardships endured by the people of Cu Chi for a cause they believe in.

A different kind of tourist trap

The tunnel tour even included an opportunity to shoot AK-47s and M-16s.  Megan rationally convinced me not to do this.  Touring these tunnels made me think if al-Qaeda complexes in Iraq, Afghanistan and Pakistan would be tourist destinations in thirty years.

People's views today
Prior to the trip I was interested to learn how Vietnamese people today thought of the US and the war.  I expected a bit of discrimination and awkwardness but honestly not much of that occurred.  Typically we were treated with respect and kindness; as it seems people have mostly moved on from the war.  It is also interesting to note that Vieetnam has gradually shifted towards a more free market economy.  Vietnam is one of the fast growing countries in Southeast Asia thanks to this opening of their economy and their proximity to China.  Despite this growth there still remains extensive poverty and corruption.  Many people believe that great times are ahead for the country but that only the select friends of the government will benefit.

 Conclusion:

• The Vietnam War history is interesting to learn from Vietnam's perspective, but it should be analyzed with a critical eye
• The sites in HCM are definitely worth seeing, with the Reunification Palace being the top priority
• Vietnamese people are surprisingly non-hostile towards Americans, so don't let the fear of discrimination deter you from visiting
• Vietnam is less communist today than you would think

*Note: This blog will try to remain apolitical at all times.  It will attempt to have a critical eye towards the politics and world it encounters but it will in no way try to further any agenda.  If you take issue with any of my writing please feel free to start a rational discussion in the comments section below.