Sri Lanka Part 3

Supun, her family and I devoted a whole day to historical Sri Lanka.

Anuradhapura

We started off early around 6am and rode up together in the family van.  We stopped for a breakfast picnic at a scenic lake.  There were many other Sri Lanka families enjoying the sights and warm sunny weather.  We had some tasty food.  I impressed Supun's family with my ability to enjoy spicy foods.  We then continued on to Anuradhapura, Sri Lanka's first capital.  It's history was quite old as it was built around 500 B.C.  There we saw another one of Sri Lanka's most sacred spots.  It is a temple with a descendant of the original Bodhi Tree under which the Buddha gained enlightenment.  A branch from the original tree was planted in 288 BC making it the oldest verified specimen of any angiosperm (type of tree).  At the temple we made an offering, lit incense, received a Buddhist string bracelet and made a wish.  If my wish comes true then I will have to return at some point to the Temple to give thanks.

We also saw the Ruwanmalisaya, which is a large white stupa dedicated to the Buddha.  It was a very impressive site an another important Buddhist site.

Sri Maha Bodi - descendant of the original bodi tree

Mihinthale

Our next stop was Mihinthale.  It's a great overlooking spot near Anuradhapura.  Supun said it was her favorite so despite being pressed for time we included it in our lengthy itinerary.  At the top of this scenic overlook were temples, stupas, and statues.  we raced up to the top and were rewarded with expansive views and a peaceful environment.  This was impressive but not as impressive as what was to come.

Minthale - a very pleaceful place

Authentic Sri Lankan lunch

For lunch we stopped at a local Sri Lankan restaurant.  We all sat down to eat and then Supun realized that they hadn't brought me silverware.  In most countries this would be noteworthy but in Sri Lanka everyone eats with their hands.  Well when in Rome... I didn't want to be an outsider so I joined in using my hands.  There's definitely a technique to it (using just the tips of the fingers, starting from the edge of the rice and using the thumb to push it into my mouth).  It was much easier to pickup than chopsticks.  I once again ate the spicy food and they joked that if I was a little tanner, I could almost past for a Sri Lankan (until I spoke of course).

Sigiriya

Our journey continued to Sigiriya, the Lion Rock.  I could best describe it as a mix of Machu Pichu and the Sphinx.  Sigiriya is a palace complex built on top of a mountain-boulder by a rogue Sri Lankan king.  The King had killed his father to usurp the throne and he feared revenge from the brother who was the rightful heir.  So he moved from the capital and build this vast complex to defend himself.  He created vast irrigation terraces for food, swimming pools and catchment pools.  He commisoined gorgeous cave paintings (still preserved) to distract any attackers.  He also built amazing walls, fortresses and statues.  The top had amazing views of the jungle, mountains and farmland of north central Sri Lanka.  It was an absolutely brilliant place that stimulate my senses and imagination.  A must see.

In front of the beautiful Sigiriya 

View from above - notice the beautiful landscape and the intricate irrigation

Supun at the entrance - it used to be a lions head but now is only the paws

View from the top of Sigiriya

Wall paintings meant to distract invaders and entertain tourists

Distracting paintings!

Panoramic of the beautiful scenery around Sigrirya

Enjoying the view

The Return

We returned back to Kandy through 1-lane roads and treacherous traffic.  It was an amazing day.  That night I stayed in St. Bridget's Guesthouse.  It was a homely guesthouse with great hospitality and authentic food.  I enjoyed the traditional dinner with some Sri Lankan beer.  After a solid night's rest I awoke for some meditation and early sustenance.  The house keepers made homemade pineapple and passion fruit jam that was deliciously sweet.  I then met up with Supun to explore the Botanical gardens.  We saw the bridge and sites and then toured the city in search of any Sri Lankan foods I hadn't tried.  We got an orange coconut thing, a fried pasty, and ice cream.  The inevitable goodbye was said and I was sad to leave.  I then took the train back to Colombo to catch my flight.  This ended the last of my Asian trips.

Lion Lager is a local beer - a light and crisp taste

Delicious homemade Sri Lankan meal at Bridget's Hostel

Thambili King Coconut like drink - delicious

Food Recap

So with Supun's help I came up with a list of foods I tried while in Sri Lanka.  It varies from the really exotic to the had-it-before-but-tasted-better in a tropical place:

• Fish Curry
• Sri Lankan Cream Soda
• Prawn Buiriyani 
• Thambili (king coconut)
• Hoppers - fluffy light pancake-like
• Koththu - noodle/egg dish
• String hoppers- iddi aapa
• Cutlets
• Malu paan - bun with marinated fish in it 
• Rolls
• Tropical fruits: mango, papaya, pineapple, white guvava
• Wade
• Extra sweet sri lankan tea
• Traditional Sweets- dodol, aluwa, milk toffee, kawum
• Poll sambal ( chiili coconut with salt and lemon)
• Daal
• rice and different curries
• papaya drink
• woodapple drink 
• Lunu Miris (chilli dip for aapa)

Sri Lanka Part 2

After my crazy journey from the airport to the hostel to the train in Colombo, I was relieved to be arrive in Kandy.  Waiting at the station was my friend Supun with her driver.  With Supun’s guidance and help I would see much more of central Sri Lanka in 48 hours than I ever thought possible.

Australian friends in Sri Lanka

Supun is a friend I met will studying abroad in Fremantle, Australia.  We were put into the same volunteer group that traveled to the Australian outback.  We had a ton of fun learning gardening, farming, construction, and hunting knowledges from the locals.  We even went rabbit and kangaroo hunting late at night with our hosts.  Supun’s spunky optimistic Buddhist ideals balanced my snarky Western sarcasm.  We’ve stayed in touch with email for the past five years but this was the first time we’d been able to catchup.  During all those years she implored me to visit Sri Lanka so when I got the chance while in Asia, I took it.   And it worked out quite well as Supun would also be in Sri Lanka during that time for a Med School elective. 

From the train station we took a three-wheeler to her relative’s place where she was staying.  They showed me warm hospitality with a tea with milk and sugar.  The saying goes that the more someone likes a guest the sweeter they make their tea.  This tea was very sweet!   Supun and I got to hang out with the little grandson there who was adorable.  

Elephant Orphanage

After packing supplies for our day we took the three wheeler to the Pinnawala ElephantOrphanage.  The journey was a bit long and bumpy on the three-wheeler but it was exciting and scenic as well.  The Elephant  Orphanage was fantastic.  They had 30-40 elephants of all ages and shapes.  When we saw them they were bathing in the river.  Supun and I were able to pet and feed them bananas.  Feeding them was tricky as we’d offer them one banana and their trunk would go straight towards the bag with the rest of the bananas.  The mischievous elephants were clever and nimble.  We spent an hour or two watching them frolic and socialize in the water.  The young baby elephants were especially playful and energetic.  After their bath, the elephants marched to their home.  We watched from a few feet away as these massive animals stormed back with alarming speed and power. 

Elephants bathing at the river near the Orphanage

Elephants powering through the streets

Elephant harassment - not sure who is giving or receiving

After the orphanage, we purchased a few souvenirs from the area and were then on our way to grab some Sri Lankan lunch.  Supun consistently insisted that I try every Sri Lankan food possible.  This made for a tasty and filling experience.  At the pre-lunch spot we grabbed fish rolls, lou mapan, and deserts.  The last time I had met with Supun, my taste in food was rather bland.  This time I was able to eat all the spicy stuff without complaints.  In fact, I impressed and shocked many of the Sri Lankans with my ability to eat the local food. 

Hospitals in Sri Lanka may get you sicker

After the pre-lunch we visited the public hospital she was working at.  In Sri Lanka, public hospitals offer all their services and medicines for free to the population.  As such it’s oversubscribed and underfunded.  The hospital floor reminded me of a war hospital with many beds crammed into an open room and patients writhing in pain.  The sanitary conditions were not up to western standards, for example, stray dogs just wander through.  Supun’s advice was “don’t get sick and if you do, go to the hospital once you get back”.  At the hospital we caught up with Supun's colleague and friend Chalani.  

Kandy City

We traveled to Kandy the major city in central Sri Lanka.  There we visited the Sri Dalada Maligawa, The Temple of the Sacred Tooth Relic, one of Sri Lanka's most holy spots.  It contains a tooth from the Buddha which had immense spiritual importance as well as political relevance.  The rulers of Sri Lanka used possession of the tooth as a sign of government legitimacy.  In the temple was a museum that had the history of the tooth.  The legend says the tooth came over in the hair of a princess and the tooth was then shuttled from capital to capital over millenia as Sri Lanka resisted invasion.  

The temple itself was impressive in it's aura, beauty and decoration.  We offered flowers, said a prayer, lit a candle and lit incense, which came in handy later in the day.  Every year the people around Kandy celebrate Esala Perahera, the festival of the tooth.  It has ornately decorated dancers, elephants, music and much more.  The ceremony has come to symbolize Sri Lanka.  It was highly recommended that I come back for Perahera.

At the temple with our flower offerings

Perahara pictures of ceremony at the Sri Dalada Maligawa.

After the temple, we grabbed some food and prepared for our journey to the north.  We grabbed some egg hoppers and kutto for a nice meal.  Disaster struck though.  As we were leaving Supun realized her iphone was misplaced.  After a bit of panic by everyone we deduced that it must have been left back in the parking lot we were at 15 minutes prior.  So we drove back knowing that the odds of finding the phone were low.  But upon arriving back we saw the iphone in it's glorious pink case.  It landed face down and was right by where our car had been.  A minor miracle to say the least given how busy the parking lot was and how long the phone was left there.  We gave credit to our offering at the Temple for bringing us good fortune. 

The next day Supun and some of her relatives picked me up for a journey north to some of the most spiritual and beautiful sights in Sri Lanka.

Sri Lanka Part 1

Megan was cooped up in India for a few weeks so I was on my own for travels.  She saw the Taj Mahal and I visited Sri Lanka.  

Sri Lanka in Brief

Sri Lanka may be unknown to many of the readers so I’ll provide a quick background.  It’s an island country in South Asia near India, which it shares many cultural similarities (e.g. similar food, religion).  The ethnic groups are the majority Singhalese and the minority Tamil. There was a 30 year civil war between political factions representing those groups.  The civil war recently ended three years ago with tensions being reduced but the threat of terrorism still present.  Sri Lanka’s people and economy suffered as a result of the lengthy and expensive conflict.  Consequently, the country is still developing in terms of industry, infrastructure and tourism.  During my time in Sri Lanka I encountered areas that were much more developing than I had seen elsewhere in Southeast Asia (with the exception of maybe Cambodia).

In search of my Hostel

Sri Lanka’s lack of infrastructure makes it difficult to get around.  After landing at the airport late on Friday night, I tried to grab a quick taxi to my hostel.  Unfortunately there were few taxi drivers available and when I was able to negotiate with one, he was unsure of where my hostel was.  We set off from the airport and passed through humble neighborhoods and dark alleys on 2 “lane” roads.  I use quotation marks as the taxis, trucks, and three-wheelers made lanes as they saw fit.  As we neared the hostel, my driver had to stop 7-8 times and call 3-4 times to figure out where the hostel was.  There was a small fear that Friday night would be spent somewhere unplanned.  Eventually, we found the place in a dark alley with no signs.  Our 25 mile cab ride took about 2 hours with only minimal traffic.  When I later asked my Sri Lankan friends about this experience they were unsurprised.

Tourism Work in Progress

The tourism industry is still developing so there is no major neighborhood to stay in Colombo nor common business practices.  When I arrived at the hostel at 2am, I was met by a couple guys in sarongs.  They weren't the sharpest tools in the shed and they had trouble finding my reservation despite the fact that I was the only one staying in the place.  They then proceeded to try and charge me twice as much as the original cost.  There were a couple giveaways: 1) I could see the prices they had written down for me and others, 2) I still had my email confirmation with the price and 3) they looked as unscrupulous as possible.  They put up a good fight but eventually I wore them down.  I then also had to convince them to order me a taxi for 5am to get me to the train on time.  Given their lack of competence with the reservation I was highly worried they would blow this as well.  At 5 I woke and walked to the dark lobby.  All the doors were closed and the gate was locked.  So I had no way to get out.  At this point I started pounding on doors to awaken someone to get me out to my taxi.  My adrenaline was high and I was pretty close to being ticked off.  Finally, the head bozo rubbed the sand out of his eyes and let me leave.  No tears were shed upon leaving this idiotic hostel. 

I arrived at the train station with little time to spare.  I then had to break through the language barrier to understand where to buy my train ticket and which line to wait in.   The stakes were high as missing the train would have cost me almost a day.  Fortunately, I was able to join forces with some other tourists from Singapore and we got our tickets in the nick of time.  I rushed to the platform and then proceeded to wait for 20 minutes at the train was late.  Such is life in a developing country.  The train had cars for locals and for foreigners.  The local cars were packed full of people, lacking air conditioning and equipped with uncomfortable seating.  I elected for the first class foreigner car which included an above expectation meal, air conditioning, reclining chairs and windows for a beautiful view.  They even had wireless.  Opting for luxury in this case was a bit touristy of me but I’m happy I made that decision.  I got some much needed sleep and an opportunity to view the gorgeous country side of Sri Lanka.  I breathed a huge sigh of relief once the train got going.  I knew my friend Supun would be meeting me at the station, and then travel would be much easier and more pleasant.

My friend Supun

Traveling as an outsider

Being a white foreigner in Sri Lanka is an interesting experience.  Strangers will gawk at me and/or be very nice.  But that niceness comes with a cost.  Everything I bought myself was 2-10 times more expensive than the prices charged to the locals (granted those prices are dirt cheap).  And a sizable minority of those smiling faces were willing to scam me for much more.  It absolutely pays to have a local guide.

Sri Lanka is an amazing place.  The adventurous travel is absolutely worth it.  I saw many amazing places and learned about another interesting culture.  There's no doubt that it's an up and coming travel place.  I’ll cover those details in my next post.

Leisure Time at Halong Bay

Located near Northern Vietnam in the South China Sea is a beautiful bay featuring thousands of limestone islands.  The most famous part of this bay is known as Halong Bay. It’s unique geography and pristine setting make it a UNESCO world heritage site.  During our trip back to Vietnam, Megan and I explored Halong Bay and neighboring Cat Ba Island via a cruise with Vega Travel.

Enjoying the scenery on one of our more relaxing vacations.

 Boat Life

We arrived at Halong Bay after a treacherous 4 hour bus ride from Hanoi on 1-lane roads with many narrow accident misses.  Our tour guide and boat team helped us navigate the hectic bay and make the way to our Junk Boat.  One of the cool things about Halong Bay is the number of interesting boats.  There are plenty of authentic Junk Boats operated by tour operators that give the bay an authentic Vietnamese feel.  Each boat has lodging available for guests and staff, as well as a kitchen, a dining room, and a sun bathing deck.  Families and crew live onboard.  They work to make each guest's experience relaxing.  It was a like a mini-cruise ship experience.  Throughout our trip we had excellent views of the numerous limestone islands.  Megan and I enjoyed hanging out with the little kids living on board.  There was a cute 2 year old girl who enjoyed playing with our food and a 5 year old little boy who loved playing soccer with us.       

Panorama of the bay from our boat.

Good friends and food

We also met some interesting travelers from all over the world.  There were couples from Germany, France, Ireland and two other couples from the US.  Although it sounds like a "couples retreat" it wasn't all that bad.  People shared war stories from their travels and tips on what to do and see in the region.  We enjoyed drinking and getting to know the Irish folks Alex and Sarah.  The family from the US was great, they taught us a bunch about Vietnamese food and were real fun to spend time with.  Throughout the cruise we were feed really well.  The food quality was solid and the variety of Asian cuisines was nice.  Some of the highlights were: grilled fish, fried shrimp balls, and spring rolls.  It was impressive how excellent the meals were despite the limitations of a small kitchen and boat supplies.   We also enjoyed attentive and inventive bar service.

Adventures on the Bay

Exploring a cave in Halong Bay.

While on the bay we were able to explore the beautiful sights up close.  We had opportunities to kayak at dusk and dawn.  At dusk we entered a peaceful cove that was inhabited by adventurous monkeys.  We got up close and personal with them as they climbed down the jagged limestone cliffs to check us out.  The setting was movie-like in its serene lush aesthetics.  We also were able to kayak around the floating villages of fish and oyster farms.  It was fascinating to the see the juxtaposition of the gritty shanties next to the beautiful abundance of the bay.  While life may be beautiful for the locals it was certainly not easy.

Many of the limestone islands also had interesting caves.  We toured the largest one and were treated to fascinating sights of geological formations.  Our tour guide was hilariously inventive with the animal shapes he saw in the rocks.  Some of his greatest finds were: a lucky turtle, a dragon, a shark, and kissing chickens.  We hiked to the top of one of the islands to get a great panorama of the Bay. 

Boats in the Bay in the early morning

The gritty boating villages in the Bay.

Cat Ba Island Fever

On the last full day of our trip we visited Cat Ba island which neighbors Halong Bay.  There we biked through the country side and saw farms, jungles, mountains and villages all on the same island.  The highlight for me was channeling my inner Tarzan as I climbed a mountain side using a few footholds and ginormous tree roots.  We spent the night in Cat Ba city which isn't much to blog about.  The rainy weather (really the only bad weather we've had in all our weekend trips) was a bit of a downer but even without it there seemed to be little to do and see during non-peak season. 

Climbing the caves in Cat Ba's jungles, using only
tree branches and rocky make-shift footholds.

On the beach taking a break from kayaking.

Conclusion

Seeing Halong Bay was great.  There was a bit of adventure but the main benefits were good service and seeing one of the most beautiful and unique places in the world.  It is definitely worth the trip.